UNDERSTANDING DONKEY BEHAVIOUR

 

As with most behaviour, the differences between similar species is caused by the initial evolution of the species.  Regardless of their environment horses have evolved in herds.  Horses use home ranges which they do not defend from other bands of horses.  Donkeys however have two possible social structures depending upon their environment.  In a nutritionally rich environment donkeys do establish herds; these groups may be slightly more transient than horse herds and jacks may be more territorial.  However, if the donkeys’ environment has limited vegetation and reduced water availability then mares spend much time on their own or with a previous year’s offspring, only congregating in larger brands in the non breeding season.  During the breeding season, in order to breed successfully, donkey stallions defend a territory from other stallions.  The behavioural differences between donkeys and horses may be the result of these different social structures.

For horses, out-running the slowest herd member ensures survival.  Solitary donkeys have no benefit from safety in numbers, and this may have lead to donkeys developing more of a fight mechanism.  Such is the strength of their fight mechanism that some donkeys can be used as guard animals for herds of sheep and goats against canine predators.

The tendency for donkey stallions to be territorial also leads to differences in their behaviour in domestication.  Donkeys can become territorial over their pasture and will sometimes attack small livestock and pets.  This territorial aggressive behaviour, it is most likely to occur in young male donkeys especially in the springtime or when their environment provides little mental stimulation.  However, older donkeys both male and female could display this behaviour.  Not all donkeys exhibit this type of behaviour and some are happy to live with small domestic livestock.

Donkeys are extremely stoical, and show their pain or fear much less than horses.  They are so stoical that even in cases of severe illness often the only symptom to alert the handler is very minor changes of behaviour.  Donkeys are less expressive in their behaviour when terrified and have a reduced flight mechanism so they tend not to panic as easily as horses.  This can lead to a misreading of their emotional states, and can, as a result, make them more difficult to work with than horses.  The fearful horse clearly displays their fear, the fearful donkey may simply raise himself up a couple of inches in height, his eyes may widen slightly and may just show what appears to be increased interest in the situation.  It is equally as easy to misdiagnose the bargey donkey, as being aggressive or disrespectful when in fact this behaviour is commonly found in donkeys that are actually fearful of their situation.

As well as their behavioural differences donkeys and horses have a number of physiological differences.  The donkey has lower levels of grease in their coat making their coats less waterproof than horses.  The donkey’s average temperature range is about 1 degree lower than that of a horse.  Donkeys’ feet have a number of differences, including being more elastic, narrower in shape, and more upright than a horse’s.  Donkeys can be prone to developing very long hooves as they do not chip and breakaway as a horse’s would do.  The donkey’s digestive system is considerably more efficient than that of a similar sized pony.

Part of the misunderstanding of donkey behaviour comes from the image of placid beach donkeys and the Christmas image of an angelic donkey.  These images make it easy to forget that donkeys have wild ancestors just like the horse and have a flight or fight nature as well.  People tend to get donkeys as pets and then discover they are every bit as individual and challenging as the horse.  Donkeys are not so prone to panic, so are less prone to injuring themselves and their handlers.

Male donkeys can be aggressive with each other, often fighting to the point of drawing blood.  Their stoic nature and increased fight mechanism probably accounts for the reason that ‘natural horsemanship’ methods are largely unsuccessful with donkeys and mules.  Donkeys are not easily forced against their will and it is very difficult to make them perform.  Donkeys are not difficult to train if trained using the science of behaviour.  Donkeys respond very well to the use of positive reinforcement and can be clicker trained extremely well if the trainer is experienced in its use.  A donkey with a fear or phobia will respond well to systematic desensitisation and counter conditioning training.

It is essential when working with donkeys that the trainer has a very good ability to use small steps to shape the animal’s behaviour.  However, it must be said that this should be the way that all equines are trained.  Donkeys just like horses, need sufficient time to think through the problems that they face and they need their problem solving ability developed.

Donkeys in general have a very efficient walking pace and to be honest, in most situations it is easier to walk at the donkeys pace rather than try and make them go at ours.  Due to their generally small stature keeping the donkey’s feet underneath the animal and only 10 cm from the floor when picking out feet will help prevent kicking.

Unfortunately, it has been common for people to use brute strength and physical force to make donkeys comply with routine treatments.  These negative methods should be avoided at all costs in favour of sound training practises and an understanding of the donkeys’ fear which is so stoically hidden.  The donkey is often misunderstood and mistreated for one simple reason; it’s not a small horse with big ears!

By Ben Hart

Source: Hart’s Horsemanship

Harness Definition of Terms

• Back-band: strap going through the harness saddle to join the belly band on either side. Takes the weight of the shafts or pole. In cart harness it is replaced by a chain running in a groove in the harness saddle, hooked to the shafts either side.

• Back-strap: A strap attached by looping through the crupper at the rear of the saddle, pad or surcingle to attach the crupper.

• Belly-band: A strap that goes more loosely under the belly of the horse, outside the girth. Prevents the shafts rising up, especially on a two-wheeled vehicle (where weight on the rear of the cart may tip the front up).

• Bit: metal mouthpiece held in the horse's mouth used to control and guide.

• Blinders: pieces of leather or plastic that attach to the bridle behind the horse's eye area to keep his vision focussed straight ahead and prevent spooking and distraction.

• Brasses: brass plaques mounted on leather straps, used for decoration, especially on working harness. Made in a very wide range of designs.

• Breast Collar: A padded strap running around the chest from side to side. Used for light work, or for somewhat heavier work it is used together with a swingletree or whippletree to allow each shoulder to pull evenly on each step without rubbing.

• Breeching: in some venues pronounced or spelled "britchin"; strap around the horse's haunches allowing it to set back and slow a vehicle, usually hooked to theshafts or pole of the vehicle. Used for a single horse, a pair, or in a larger team, only for the wheelers (the animal or pair closest to the vehicle). The leaders in a team do not have breeching, as they are in front of the shafts or pole and so cannot slow the vehicle. Breeching may also be omitted in fine harness, or when the cart is very light or has efficient brakes on the wheels.

• Bridle: head gear including the bit, used to control and guide the horse(s).  When working in harness, most horses wear a specialized bridle that includes features not seen in bridles used for riding. These usually include blinders and shadow rollon the noseband of the bridle for the same purpose.

• Carriage: a four wheeled vehicle drawn behind a horse, donkey or other animal (not be confused with "cart").

• Cart: a two wheeled vehicle drawn behind a horse, donkey or other animal (not to be confused with "carriage"). 

• Collar: sometimes called a "horse collar". A padded loop fitting closely around the horse's neck, pointed at the top to fit the crest of the neck. The collar allows the horse to push against the harness with its shoulders and chest.  Used for heavier pulling, especially when used without a swingletree or whippletree.

• Crupper: soft padded loop under the base of the tail, to keep the harness from slipping forward.

• False martingale: strap passing between the front legs, from the center of thecollar to the belly-band, to hold the collar in position. Called "false", because unlike a true martingale it does not attach to the bridle or have any influence on the horse's action.

• Fixed back-band: In a four-wheeled vehicle the shafts or pole must be allowed to hinge up and down, to allow the horse and vehicle to pass over hills and dips. Often the shafts are independently hinged, and on a side-slope these will each hinge to follow the horse, and a sliding back band is not needed. However, if a sliding back band was used with independent shafts it might allow one shaft to ride up higher than the other, and so for such shafts the back-band is normally fixed to the harness saddle. On other four-wheeled vehicles the two shafts hinge together, and a sliding back band is needed as for two-wheeled vehicles.

• Girth: strap that goes firmly around the girth of the horse to attach the harness saddle.

• Hames: Two metal or wooden strips which take the full force of the pull, padded by the collar.

• Harness Saddle: sometimes called a "pad". A small supportive piece of the harness that lies on the horse's back, not the same as a riding saddle.

• Martingale: straps to assist in the position and direction of the reins from the horse's mouth to driver's hands.

• Overcheck: strap to assist a horse in holding a desired head position, and for safety reasons (to avoid the horse's head and neck going under the shaft in a stumble) and to keep him from grazing while in harness. The overcheck hooks to a pedestal on the harness saddle.

• Reins: long leather straps running from the bit to the driver's hands, used to guide the horses. In teams of several animals these may be joined together so the driver only need hold one pair.

• Shadow Roll: a covering over the noesband of the bridle, usually made of sheep's wool, to keep a horse's vision focussed straight ahead and prevent spooking and distraction.

• Shafts: the rigid extensions of a vehicles that attach the animal's harness.

• Shaft tugs: sometimes "tugs", loops attached to the back-band to hold up theshafts of a vehicle in fine harness (not needed in cart harness, which attaches to hooks on the shafts).  Two types: 1) For two-wheeled vehicles the tugs are stiff leather loops, fitting fairly loosely around the shafts, to allow flexibility as the animal and the vehicle move against each other 2) For four-wheeled vehicles with independently hinged shafts, the tugs are leather straps buckled tightly around theshafts so they move with the animal.

• Sliding back-band: In a two-wheeled vehicle the shafts are fixed to the vehicle to hold it level. On a side-slope, one shaft will be higher than the other, and in this case the back band is normally allowed to slide sideways through the harness saddle, so the horse can walk upright without strain on the harness.

• Surcingle: term used within certain light fine harness designs to describe the combination of a light girth and harness saddle.

• Swingletree:  a horizontal bar, attached or suspended in the middle, and able to hinge fore-and-aft in a horizontal plane. The traces attach to its ends, and the vehicle is pulled from its middle. The centre of the swingletree may be bolted directly to the body of the vehicle, this bolt pulling the vehicle along. Alternatively it may hang loosely by a chain or strap from the body of the vehicle, and in this case the pull is taken by chains from the centre of the bar to the ends of the axle. The action of a swingletree is to balance the pull from alternate shoulders as the animal walks. It is used especially when the animal is in a breast collar harness, because this can easily rub the shoulders if the pull is uneven. It is needed less for an animal in a horse collar, as the pull does not pass over the shoulders in the same way. For this reason heavier vehicles may have no swingletree, as they are normally pulled with a horse collar.

• Traces: the straps by which the animal pulls a vehicle or load.

• Terrets: metal loops on the saddle and collar to support the reins. The bridles of the rear animals of a large team may also have terrets to take the reins of the animals to the front of them.

• Whippletree: used to distribute forces from a point load to the traces of draught animals. The whippletree consists of a loose horizontal bar between the animal and its load. The centre of the bar is connected to the load, and the traces attach to its ends.  Whippletrees are used especially when pulling a dragged load such as a plough.

Source: http://www.eeebray.com

Mule Psychology 101: Teaching Your Mule

 

By Cindy K. (McKinnon) Roberts

Successful training programs are developed with the mule's natural behavior and response in the mind.  In other words, you would not attempt to teach the mule a task that is beyond his ability.  If a difficult task were introduced to the mule, that may not be mentally or physically ready, a conflict would result.... and perhaps his health would be at risk as well.  For this reason, I often question the ability of a two year old being broke out at such a young age....and always encourage schooling to start at three.   Remember, young mules are generally insecure.   To keep your training session successful, follow these simple rules.  

Teach the simplest exercise first.  For example, in teaching your mule to make a flying change of lead, start from the ground first.  Simply teach the mule to pivot on the forehand while is on the ground and then attempt from the saddle.  Next, teach the side pass and a two-track.  After you have accomplished these moves, the mule is able to learn to take a lead on demand, then to make a simple change of leads and eventually, a flying change.  

Another example would be when teaching whoa.  It is best to teach the mule to stop at the walk, then the trop, the lope and finally...the gallop.  

Teach more than one exercise at a time. It would be very boring to the mule if you were to teach one exercise.  It would also be intense for the mule.  This is  because you would be striving for perfection before moving on.  Therefore, teach several exercises that can be learned at the same time.  For example, teaching the mule to back through poles as well as learning serpentines, bending exercises (circling), working through cones as well as tires will keep the mule's mind fresh and willing.  Be sure that your exercises are at the same level of schooling to avoid confusing your mule.  You wouldn't teach geometry before addition, correct?  

Source: http://www.everycowgirlsdream.com

What Can a Donkey Do?

 

Many people like to own these fine animals for their wonderful personalities and their fine pet qualities. There is probably no more adorable baby in the animal world than the little donkey with its long ears and long legs and sweet face and fuzzy coat. However, there are many uses for donkeys. Here are some of them for your information:

SHEEP (OR GOAT) PROTECTION. A single donkey, usually a jennet, sometimes a gelding (jacks rarely work because they can be too aggressive with lambs) is introduced to the herd and undergoes a bonding stage. After it has bonded with the sheep, it will protect them against canine predators (fox, coyote, dogs) as it would one of its own. This is extremely beneficial in areas where the sheep have many acres to graze. The advantage of the donkey over the guard dog is that they can eat the same food as the sheep so they don't have to be fed separately. The donkey will also bed down with the sheep at night. Given a strange sound it will voice a warning to the flock which alerts them to danger. Then the donkey will chase and often trample the predator. Miniature donkeys are not usually large enough to handle the coyotes, and mammoth donkeys are usually too slow.

HALTER BREAKING. The standard size donkey is also very adept at halter breaking young calves (polled or dehorned) and yearling horses. The donkey wears a collar that is connected to the halter of the animal that is being taught to lead. The animals are then turned loose in an enclosure, always under supervision. Where the donkey wants to go, it will go. The colt or calf has no option but to follow. By allowing the donkey to perform the unpleasant task of lead training, the "trainee" doesn't associate people with this particular stressful situation. In fact, when you release the colt or calf from the donkey, they are usually very willing to follow you. Articles are available on this particular form of halter training from the American Donkey and Mule Society.

COMPANIONSHIP. The donkey is a wonderful companion to foals at weaning time. The donkey is allowed to run with the mare and foal prior to weaning, then kept with the foal when weaning takes place. The foal has a calm, steadying influence from the donkey and looks to it for support. This calmness is transferred to the foal and the trauma of separation from the dam is reduced. As most donkeys readily come up to people this behavior is duplicated by the foal. Not only have you reduced foal stress, but you have instilled in the foal a friendly attitude toward people.

STABLE COMPANION. This is very similar to the foal companion, only in this case the donkey takes on the responsibility of another animal's well-being. Nervous horses have been known to calm down with a donkey companion as a stall or pasture mate. With horses recovering from surgery or injury or with nervous horses such as race or show horses, the donkey seems to have a calming effect. Almost as if the donkey is saying "It's O.K., we'll get through this together". The miniature is often used for this purpose since it does not take up much room in the stall of a race horse or injured horse.

HANDICAPPED RIDING PROGRAMS. The donkey has shown time and time again how wonderful it is with children and handicapped people. In many areas, especially England, the donkey is used extensively in riding and animal companion programs for the physically and mentally handicapped. Their small stature, slow and thoughtful nature and affectionate disposition make them ideal for this purpose when properly selected and trained. Both the person and the donkey know they are special together, and the bond that develops between the two is quite unexplainable.

BABY SITTER. The donkey naturally loves children. While there are a few exceptions, the donkey is not usually a biter or kicker. They have the patience of Job and therefore are ideally suited to being around children. For use around children, the handicapped and for most uses (except jacks kept for breeding) a jennet or gelding is the preferred animal.

WORKING DONKEY. The donkey is used all over the world for an infinite variety of jobs. Here in this country, some common uses are recreational riding; recreational driving, both single and in teams; packing, many backpackers use a donkey (which they often call a burro), to carry the heavy load since the animals walk at about a human's foot pace and are such enjoyable companions on the trail; skidding or pulling things on the homestead such as firewood, trash, etc.; pulling a sledge, travois or wheeled cart to carry things for the small farm such as barb wire for fencing, trash, or anything that needs to be moved; the donkey can also carry such items on its back in panniers if that is more convenient than pulling it; showing, many adults and children enjoy showing their animals in the donkey and mule shows around the country; the different kinds of work your animal can do to help you are limited only by your imagination.

MULE BREEDING. All sizes of donkeys are used to breed mules. Large mammoth jacks up to 16 hands in height are used to breed draft mules. Medium sized mammoth and large standard jacks are used to breed saddle and pack mules. Standard jacks are often used to breed miniature mules in the larger size ranges which are used in teams for pulling wagons and for children to ride and use. Miniature jacks are mated with miniature horse mares or Shetland ponies to produce very tiny mules for pets, single driving and just for fun.

Source: http://www.donkeys.com

Mule Psychology 101: Survival Behavior In Your Mule

By Cindy K. (McKinnon) Roberts

Older or spoiled mules that have experienced negative incidents will exhibit survival behavior to the fullest.  Their response to a similar situation is not favorable and usually, the handler will get hurt in the process.  Just remember, this type of behavior is usually brought on by the hander, himself.  In other words, if at any time during your training session, things didn't go according to plan, then that is chalked up as a negative experience.  No to mention, a dangerous habit has been developed.  I believe that at any given time, in any given situation, the mule is capable to respond as he sees fit.  This is due to the mule's strong self preserving attitude that came from his sire.  Any new introduction that seems life threatening to the mule, can only make him fearful and respond to the situation, and that is....to survive.

To address this behavior, we are going to re-program  the mule's brain as much as mother nature will allow us.  The goal during this training session is to recognize that you are the dominant factor in the equine pecking order.  Not easy to do.  That is why we must influence his mind.  Before I move on, I must reemphasize that this article is specifically focused on older or spoiled mules.  Older being  6 years of age and on up.  Younger mules cannot mentally  handle harsh or abrupt training techniques.  They are at that impressionable age, where they need to learn trust in humans.  So, just how is it that a young mule can learn trust if we apply corrective training techniques to him?  He can't.  Do your homework with your young mule and don't cut corners.  Cut cows, not corners.  Build on your relationship with him and you'll have a friend for life.  Therefore, I am not recommending this technique to be used on a young mule.  

Further, I encourage that you learn round pen training and use the round pen in with your training program.  Running a mule to exhaustion is not correct round pen training. Learning equine communication has been the most rewarding language that I have studied.  And, no one can teach it better than Monty Roberts.  "From My Hand To Yours" is an excellent book that will open your eyes so that you can see into your horse's mind.  Do yourself and your mule a favor.  If you are having respect issues, learn round pen training and apply it.

Influencing the mule's mind will create a better understanding between the mule and rider.  This is where the psychology part kicks in.  We will be direct as possible, get to the point and be prepared to establish results.  If you run into a conflict and you're not prepared to handle it, then you lose.  Remember The Rules?  Go back and read them again.  It will help to  keep you in focus with your schooling.  If I am having a bad day, I read them over to remind myself what should be.  And, I must admit, it works on people too!  

Source: http://www.everycowgirlsdream.com

Stubborn ass or intelligent donkey?

 

How fast can donkeys learn?

Obviously the rate of learning depends on what donkeys are trying to learn. Donkeys easily learn things that are closest to their natural behaviours. Activities, which are completely unnatural to donkeys such as being driven, ridden, holding their feet up for the farrier, or travelling in a trailer, can take longer to learn because they are so far removed from the natural behaviours of the donkey. Their rate of learning can certainly be as quick as a dog or a dolphin, both of which are considered to be extremely intelligent animals. Anyone who owns a donkey will be aware that they quickly learn that the sound of the door latch to the feed room opening means that food may soon arrive. They learn to control their humans very quickly, easily training them to scratch their itchy spots, or to deliver food rewards. Often, you will see donkeys reverse up to their owners because they wish to have their bottoms scratched. During this process of learning, we are seeing a donkey train its owner to scratch the appropriate spot on command – pretty clever!

Donkeys that have been well handled with positive techniques in the past are more likely to be confident and more motivated to learn new things through their interaction with humans and their environment. In order to learn most effectively, the lessons need to be offered in small, easily understood sections or steps – this is a process we call ‘shaping behaviour’. All donkeys are individual and their ability to learn is varied. Much relies on the ability of the trainer to be able to communicate accurately and consistently what is required.

What motivates a donkey to learn?

Donkeys can be motivated most successfully by things that they would naturally find enjoyable such as food or scratches, social interaction with other animals or perhaps being turned out into a field of grass. Not all donkeys are motivated by the same rewards, nor are they motivated to the same levels. The use of scratches to motivate the animal is reminiscent of two donkeys mutually grooming each other and it has been scientifically shown in horses, that grooming the area of the withers can lower the heart rate of the animal. However, patting a donkey is not really viewed as a positive experience by the donkey. Donkeys do not pat each other, and therefore find it difficult to understand what patting means. Patting is very similar to swatting a fly or smacking the animal, therefore it is always best to scratch the animal as a reward for good behaviour. We like to pat our donkeys but scratching is much more appreciated by most donkeys.

The donkey can also be motivated to avoid negative stimulus such as a pull on the lead rope or negative body language. The donkey is motivated to perform the behaviour to stop or avoid something it finds negative. This type of motivation should be used carefully with full understanding of the consequences of misuse. The negative stimulus should not be over used or increased. When it is necessary to use this type of negative stimulus to motivate the donkey, rewards should also be used to encourage the correct behaviour.

Can you teach old donkeys new tricks?

When donkeys are older or if behaviour has been established for many years it is easy to believe that their behaviour will not change. However, it certainly is possible to teach old donkeys new behaviours. Once older donkeys are mentally stimulated, by giving them problems to solve and challenges to undertake, they begin to learn new activities more rapidly. Obviously an older animal will have more established behaviour, which is harder to change, so training may take longer.

The nature of donkeys is not to be aggressive, stubborn or difficult but purely to learn and survive. Therefore, what is the answer to the question, are donkeys intelligent? They are good at learning to survive and they are good at learning to avoid activities they find difficult, frightening or painful. They have good memories and learn very easily. Donkeys are very good at being donkeys.

Source: The Donkey Sanctuary

IMPIEGO DEL LATTE DI ASINA IN CAMPO MEDICO, ALIMENTARE E COSMETICO

Filippo Paolicelli

Il latte di asina è un prodotto antico, utilizzato da sempre. Non ci sono documenti che indicano il momento in cui l’uomo ha iniziato a mungere le asine, si presume che questa attività abbia avuto inizio con la nascita dell’allevamento degli asini. Le più antiche testimonianze storiche atte a documentare la presenza di allevamenti asinini sono delle raffigurazioni su bassorilievo, risalenti al 2500 a.C. ritrovate in Egitto. Nello stesso territorio le ambizioni di bellezza di Cleopatra e a Roma quelle di Poppea mettono in risalto il latte di asina, le loro abitudini ampiamente documentate dagli storici del tempo, producono un’ “eco” ancora vivo ai giorni nostri. Plinio tra Roma e Atene diffuse ricette per preparare pozioni e unguenti a base di latte di asina, cipolla e piante palustri, considerandolo un liquido particolarmente curativo.

Bisognerà attendere il Rinascimento per una prima vera considerazione scientifica del latte di asina da parte dei saggi del tempo. Francesco I, in Francia, su consiglio dei suoi medici utilizza latte di asina per guarire da una lunga malattia. Sull’esperienza di Francesco I si iniziò ad allevare asine in prossimità di ospedali. Sempre in Francia nel 19° secolo ad opera del Dottor Parrot dell’ "Hôpital des Enfants Assistés" si diffuse la pratica di avvicinare i neonati orfani di madri direttamente al capezzolo dell’asina. I bambini venivano allattati 5 volte di giorno e 2 di notte, mentre un’asina poteva alimentare tranquillamente 3 bambini per 5 mesi. (Bulletin de l'Académie de médecine, 1882)

Attualmente la comunità scientifica eredita da tale tradizione storica l’importanza del latte di asina come sostituto del latte umano, studiandone le potenzialità, al fine di utilizzarlo con giusto metodo. L’impiego del latte di asina, nel senso più generico, è stato per certi versi condizionato da alcuni aspetti quali: Nel collettivo immaginario utilizzare, per l’alimentazione, un latte diverso da quello vaccino, provoca molte perplessità. / Non tutti conoscono le qualità e l’impiego possibile del latte di asina. / Il latte di asina è difficile da reperire. / La mancata commercializzazione su larga scala, del latte di asina, penalizza questo prodotto su più aspetti. / Un prezzo piuttosto elevato (10 euro/litro). L’utilizzo del latte di asina nell’immediato futuro, con la risoluzione di questi punti e soprattutto con l’apporto di un quadro legislativo efficace, si ipotizza possa migliorare. Il vero punto di forza del latte di asina, è il suo profilo biochimico, molto prossimo al latte umano. Tra le caratteristiche più importanti si evidenzia il tasso di lattosio, il profilo proteico, idoneo alle condizioni di un lattante e un quantitativo in ceneri, pertinente alle nozioni riportate in letteratura con riferimento al latte umano. Risulta interessante valutare come il carico dei reni del neonato alimentato con latte equino sia simile a quello di un neonato alimentato da latte materno. Tutte nozioni queste, ampiamente descritte in molti lavori. Altre componenti presenti nel L.A. sono il lisozima, gli acidi grassi della serie omega3 e omega6 e il lattosio. Sono tre interessanti componenti capaci di conferire al L.A. proprietà curative che meritano menzione.

Il sito web su indicato fornisce, sulla base di un dialogo ottenuto con i suoi utenti, le percentuali della richiesta del latte di asina nelle varie possibilità di impiego: Per l’alimentazione dei neonati e bambini affetti da APLV e non 69% / Nella ricerca 6% / Ad uso pro-prebiotico 4% / nella cosmetica 5% / Nell’alimentazione degli anziani 4% / nell’alimentazione degli adulti allergici e non 7% / Per tutti gli altri impieghi 5%.

I campi di utilizzo del latte di asina sono: Il campo MEDICO il campo ALIMENTARE e quello COSMETICO.

1° CAMPO: MEDICO
n Per il contenimento delle forme di APLV nei neonati e adulti.
n Per la convalescenza
n Per la regolarizzazione della flora gastro-enterica
n Per la prevenzione di malattie cardiovascolari, infiammatorie e di natura autoimmune. (4)

Il latte di asina nelle forme allergiche alle proteine del latte vaccino in età neonatale : E’ un latte naturale, ipoallergenico, particolarmente indicato per i neonati affetti da APLV, inseguito alla scarsa presenza di caseine e altre proteine con elevato potere immunogeno, generalmente ben tollerate dai
neonati, con scarsa o totale assenza di reazioni avverse. Il potere ipoallergenico del L.A. si dimostra per tanto di gran lunga superiore al latte di capra. I biopepeptidi attivi: lisozima e lattoperossidasi, presenti in L.A., in quote prossime a quelle del latte materno, e comunque superiori al latte vaccino, consentirebbero di svolgere un ruolo importante nell' inibizione della crescita dei microrganismi potenzialmente patogeni nell' intestino del neonato (Heine, 1992). SI è osservato che la domanda totale del L.A. per l’alimentazione destinata ai neonati ed ai bambini è pari al 63% in confronto al 37% della richiesta destinata a tutti gli altri usi. E’ interessante notare come il 63% della domanda si compone di un 42% proveniente dal Nord Italia, di un 25% dal Centro e di un 33% proveniente dal Sud. I distretti (intesi come città e provincia) con la più alta percentuale di richiesta sono stati per il Nord, Milano 42%, per il Centro, Roma 29% e per il Sud Napoli con il 29% Regolazione della microflora intestinale:’ Un altro aspetto importante del L.A. nel campo medico è la sua capacità di regolarizzare la microflora intestinale, grazie all’azione svolta dal LISOZIMA e dal LATTOSIO. Il L.A. avvia con l’enzima un’azione selettiva, agendo su batteri patogeni o potenzialmente tali, inducendone la morte. Il lattosio, invece funge da ottimo substrato per lo sviluppo della normale flora intestinale, riuscendo a garantire anche delle condizioni di PH ad essa favorevole. Nel complesso si può riconoscere al L.A. una buona azione prebiotica, capace di migliorare lo stato del soggetto soprattutto in condizioni debilitanti quali stress o malattie di varia natura.

Prevenzione delle malattie cardiovascolari: Dopo aver ricordato la qualità degli acidi grassi presenti in questo latte, diventa facile ipotizzare, qualora venisse assunto con una certa regolarità, un’azione preventiva a riguardo dei distretti cardiocircolatori, impedendo la formazione di placche aterosclerotiche; si riducono quindi i rischi di cardiopatie dovute ad aumenti pressori del flusso ematico ed all’insorgenza di infarti.

2° CAMPO: ALIMENTARE
Nell’alimentazione il L.A. è un prodotto di nicchia ma le sue potenzialità sono molto alte. Nell’alimentazione neonatale: Il latte di asina è una valida alternativa alimentare naturale per i neonati che non possono disporre del latte materno (orfani o carenza/assenza di latte). Bisogna però ricordare il valore energetico del latte di asina (valore medio espresso in kJ/Kg, pari a 1708,1).(5) risulta piuttosto inferiore ai valori medi richiesti, tuttavia eseguendo delle facili integrazioni si può correggere questo parametro. I vantaggi di alimentare con latte di asina un bambino si identificano in alcuni punti quali: la quantità di lattosio prossima a quella del latte umano / La quantità del residuo secco è simile a quella del latte umano e quindi il carico renale di bambini alimentati con latte di asina è stato stimato essere simile a quello riscontrato in neonati alimentati con latte materno (Iacono et al. , 1992) / Il latte di asina presenta proprietà prebiotiche utili nel valorizzare la flora batterica intestinale / Il latte di asina presenta elementi biottivi capaci di proteggere direttamente l’organismo attaccando patogeni e indirettamente potenziando il sistema immunitario / Il L.A. avrebbe un ruolo nei processi di osteogenesi (wolter 1996) / I neonati alimentati con L.A. tendono a sviluppare un sistema immunitario completo e normale (Chiarelli 2001).

Il latte di asina nella dieta: Si è visto che il latte di asina è una buona base per la preparazione di una bevanda fermentata probiotica (6) esistono quindi tutti i presupposti per la realizzazione di un prodotto probiotico da confezionare su larga scala. Il latte di asina è usato in quanto tale nella
comune dieta giornaliera, soprattutto nei soggetti a regime dietetico, negli sportivi e nei soggetti anziani. Il L.A. viene impiegato nel sostituire il comune latte vaccino nella realizzazione di gelati,creme ed altri prodotti dell’”industria” dolciaria, richiesti da soggetti allergici o sottoposti a diete. Questa applicazione consente ai bambini allergici di poter gustare un buon gelato, un budino e altri dolci, evitando così difficili privazioni..

Nell’alimentazione degli anziani: Il profilo ipolipidico, con esplicito riferimento ai grassi insaturi, abili riparatori delle complesse membrane proprie delle cellule nervose; le siero-proteine, facilmente assimilabili e potenziatici del sistema immunitario; le vitamine e il lattosio importante nel favorire l’assorbimento di Ca , rendono il L.A. particolarmente indicato anche nell’alimentazione degli anziani.

3° CAMPO: COSMETICA
Il L.A. sta diventando un importante elemento della DERMO-COSMESI; così come un tempo, le donne oggi ricercano questo prodotto per ricavarne benefici. Un buon dermo-cosmetico deve detergere, idratare la cute e per quanto possibile offrire un’azione antiossidante. Il latte (inteso come prodotto generico) si presenta per la sua composizione (componente grassa + componente acquosa) capace di assolvere queste funzioni. Il L.A. per le componenti fin qui ampiamente citate, deterge e in maniera più efficace idrata, rendendo la cute morbida ed elastica, inoltre si dimostra capace di fornire un’azione antiossidante. I preziosi acidi grassi del L.A. riescono a ripristinare e proteggere le membrane delle cellule cutanee. Il complesso multivitaminico (A, B, C, E) blocca e allontana i cataboliti del metabolismo cellulare proprio della cute e avvia un’azione epitelioprotettrice. Il lisozima si presenta in questo caso come abile attenuatore degli stati flogistici della cute e del cuoio capelluto. (Cotte 1991). Al fine di esaltare le capacità detergenti e idratanti la cosmetica ha realizzato delle formulazioni quali saponi e creme, tuttavia il modo per beneficiare a pieno di queste proprietà è quello di usare il L.A. tal quale, poiché alcuni dei processi fisici, meccanici e chimici, propri delle preparazione cosmetiche, possono alterarlo. Il latte di asina in conclusione a tali osservazioni si presenta come un ottimo ALIMENTO FUNZIONALE il cui interesse si amplia non solo ai settori fin qui citati ma inevitabilmente anche a quello zootecnico, aiutandolo a conservare una tradizione: quella dell’asino.

Source: http://www.lattediasina.it

Mule Psychology 101: Mule's Are Better

 

By Cindy K. (McKinnon) Roberts

his has been an on going argument between horseman and mule person since the beginning time.  My experience with mules have been unique and rewarding. Hopefully, the following information will answer your questions.

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It must be love. All I know is...from the moment I laid eyes on this beautiful and intriguing creature, it captured my heart.  It literally took possession of my soul....then my wallet. First the ears,  then the bray.  It was too much.  I became "mule struck".   I was so spellbound from communicating with this hybrid, I instantly new that I had to free them from any pain and suffering.  My friends said,  "Snap out of it!"  It was too late.  My  “mule sense” developed so  quickly that I realized my passion with mules would never end.  It soon turned into a crusade to educate people about the saddle  mule and a better way to train them.  This is what prompted me to  film and produce The Behavior & Training Of The Saddle Mule  Video.

My friends thought I was nuts.  All those years of riding beautiful horses and now they are convinced that I am living in a mule fantasy world.  You see, every “cowboy” has an idea as to what  equine beauty is. To the educated horseman, it is athletic ability a wide jaw, large eyes, alert and small ears, round full hips, straight legs, refinement, excellent muscle, quality feet as well as a good temperament. With the exception of the ears, the same holds true for the mule.  An educated mule person has high standards for developing quality saddle mules.   There is a commitment with  professional mule breeders, to develop the mule breed to being the  best show quality possible.     

The mule being a hybrid, is sterile and cannot reproduce.  They have 63 chromosomes, which do not pair off evenly as they do in other species.  So your grand champion show mule is not able to stand at stud for a nice stud fee.  This is the frustrating part about hybrids.    

Interestingly, Mother Nature has passed on absolute traits to the mule.  Their extreme intelligence came from their sire, the jack.  Their athletic way of going comes from the horse mare.  Amusingly, the  mule is able to bray only on the exhale.  Where as a donkey (his sire)  can bray (hee-haw) while breathing in and out.  A well developed mule has acquired the definitive features from his jack and yet has the style and grace from his mare.  Since the horse mare raises the mule from birth, it is essential to select a mare with an easy and pleasing attitude.   In my opinion, inferior breeding produces  ugly mules.   Poor breeding will produce poor quality stock...in mules as well as horses.

For those of you that desire for captivating conversation over dinner tonight, I have include the following dazzling mule history:  During the ruling of King Ferdinand (around 1480) throughout Spain,  there was a law proclaiming it unlawful to ride a mule!  This was because the resident farmers were neglecting their breeding programs  for horses. As a result, poor quality horses were being produced.  It was important too have excellent horses for breeding stock, so that the royal family and their knights had superior animals for battle.  Vanity was the true reason for the King and Queen to be seen only  on beautiful horses.  While the farmers and peasants in Spain were  “mule struck”, the royal horse population suffered.  This prompted the "no mules law". Due to the ban on mules, world explorer Christopher Columbus, had to get a special permission from the King, just so he could ride his very own mule. You see, Columbus had back problems, and the mule was his ride of choice.

Years later, our first President-Commander and Chief, George Washington became our first mule breeder in the United States.  George Washington wrote to the King of Spain inquiring about the possibility  of purchasing  good quality breeding stock. The King responded by  sending him two Andalusian jacks and jennets as a gift. One of the  jacks died during his long voyage to America but the others arrived safely at Mount Vernon in December of 1785.   The surviving jack was named “Royal Gift”.  Some time later, Marquis de Lafayette sent  General Washington a black Maltese jack named “King of Malta”  and several jennets.  These animals were bred with his Andalusians  to become the foundation of American Mammoth Jackstock.  At 14  hands, (56 inches) the Maltese jack was considerably smaller than “Royal Gift”  who was 16 hands (64 inches)  and considered a superb  jack by all accounts.  At last, the Spanish embargo ended in 1813 and  new bloodlines were then imported from Spain, allowing Majorca and Malta to strengthen the foundation laid by George Washington.  And that is how the mule got his “big start” in America.

The mule has played a very big role throughout the development of the United States.  They were used as teams for work and transportation and usually were selected as mounts by men of the frontier.  The famous 20 Mule Team Borax is an excellent example of an American legend made during the 1880s.  However, life was risky on the desert trail back then.   The  Native American Apache people liked to steal the white man’s mule to kill and eat. This was a real threat, as the Apache Indians liked mule meat as much as he hated the white man.

The mules were an  asset to the U.S. Army Calvary Units.  Mules were used during the Civil War to transport the cannons and other artillery.  They were valued because of their superior strength and stamina.  They are able to withstand harsh environmental conditions and terrain. They will not spook and run away as horses will.  This  was extremely important while in cr itical times of battle.

My grandfather rode in the last U.S. Calvary and was assigned a mule.  He photographed U.S. Army mules and later became an artist.  I only wish he would have lived long enough to see what  I have been able to do with my mules.

Mules were used for packing missiles into the mountains of Afghanistan from 1979-1989 during the war against the Russians.  At that time, the United States was giving aid to Afghanistan and shipped mules from Dallas, Texas to the Pakistan border.   Hub Reese of Galatin, Tennessee was the main supplier for shipping pack mules o Afghanistan.  Many mules were killed in the mountains as a result,  but they were helping Afghanistan during their time of need.   Mules possess a keen sense of awareness to them.  They are able to scent water for more than a mile away.  They can detect danger from enemy attack simply because they can feel vibrations from the ground through their feet.  They have superior hearing.  This is why they are beneficial to third world nations.

Mules require less feed as compared to a horse of the same size.  Generally, a mule will eat as much as 30% less, so it is economical to  keep a mule. They will not overeat and founder as horses will. To “founder” is a critical health condition as a result from overeating fresh,  lush pasture or feed.  Usually a horse is useless after foundering themselves.

Mules are sure footed and are able to travel through rocky and  intense terrain where a horse is unable to go.  I like to think of it as having four wheel drive.  Many truck owners would rather have four wheel drive as an option, but some people are cheap and won’t pay for it.  They will make do with their two wheel drive trucks and hope for the best.  With  a mule, it is the same logic.  You get what you pay for.  A good mule is going to cost you, but they never lose their value and you cannot always replace a good mule.  It takes time.  When purchasing an equine for trail riding and you are thinking of that four wheel drive option, you better go for it, reach deep into your wallet and buy a decent mule.  If you buy from a reputable dealer, you should be able to get one that comes with a warranty too.

I have ridden through dangerous rocky hillsides many times with my mule “Rawhide” and have never gotten into trouble with her.  We have ridden through bear and cougar habitat.  I have ridden her through heavy traffic (at fairs and events in the city) and through crowds at concert events and she has always been calm.  She will not spook at gunfire or fireworks.  She too will let you know if she  likes what she is doing...or NOT.   Rawhide  has been exposed to many things and that is what makes her an excellent mule.

I receive compliments from people about how well trained my mule is.  I have  trained her  and many other mules and that is a great feeling to get a compliment about your mule....especially if it is coming from a horse person.  

Mules are calculating creatures. They are extremely smart.  They see  the world in black and white.  You have to be direct with the mule, as  you don’t want to bore him.   If a mule refuses to do a task, it is for a good reason.  A mule cannot be worked to death like a horse can.  So the term “stubborn as a mule” is not really a true statement.  Mules that have been trained properly will respond favorably and do the requested  task.  However, many people, especially horse people, do not know how to train a mule.  That is why there are mules that have “quirks”....because  a mule never forgets his experiences.  A smart mule trainer knows this.  That is why it is important to teach things to your hybrid properly.  If you are unable to do this, then you are better off sending your mule to a professional mule trainer and pay the price. 

Mules  are judgmental animals.  They will not tolerate ill treatment.  Badly treated mules usually end up at the sale barn, because they have a bad attitude.  Mules are not forgiving like horses are.  Many ignorant people have been killed by “outlaw” mules.  You see, owning a mule is  comparable to being married.  You would rather have a good marriage and enjoy your time spent together.  The same concept holds true for your mule.  Mules know if you like them or not.  You have to develop a friendship and bond with your mule first before you are able to work together.  And if you do not allow this to grow into a true friendship then you and your mule can get into some nasty disagreements, which can  easily lead to you divorcing your mule.  And I have seen some really ugly mule divorces over the years.

Rawhide and I have been together for more than 20 years.  It is common for mules to stay in the same family for many years.  I met a mule that was forty one and never was sold.  He remained with his original family and the great grandchildren were now riding him.  A decent mule makes a wonderful baby-sitter for young children.

Mules cannot be forced into doing things they do not favor.  That’s a  trait in the mule that most people fail to honor.   Mules have to like what they are doing, or they simply will not do it. Quite simply, it has to be their idea.  Otherwise, they will continually “scheme” and act up to avoid doing something they don’t like.   Inefficient trainers that attempt to use force on these animals, soon develop dangerous habits and that is how you create an outlaw mule.    

   
To appreciate the mule's mind and athletic ability, take time out to  learn about his parents, and you will find that you still don't know all there is to know about the mule.   My friend recently confessed that she did not become a better parent until she bought her first mule.  She said she learned everything about her kids by getting to know her mule.  Pretty clever.

I choose to understand the mule and his point of view...I respect his independence. I believe they are complex creatures that are often times misunderstood.  Hopefully, from here on out, you will remember...to look into their heart and then proceed to move forward with this thought.  Mules are individuals.  It is vital to understand their distinctive personalities.  Designing an effective and humane training program for your mule will help you to develop a partner for life. 

Source: http://www.everycowgirlsdream.com

Definition of Donkey Terms

• Andalusian: the Andalusian donkey is a native Spanish breed of donkey native to Córdoba in Andalusia, also called "Donkey of Lucena Breed" because this town is its origin. It is considered the Oldest of the European breeds, with some 3,000 years, and is threatened with extinction. It is a large breed in which males may reach 1.60 m. in height at the withers, and females 1.50 m. His head is medium sized sub-convex profile and the neck is muscular. Longiníleo loin and lean and sharp withers. Unlike other breeds of Spain, his coat is short, including on the ears, and soft to the touch. His coat is predominantly black-gray thrush, but can be lighter or almost white. Given its origin, it is strong and sturdy and docile and calm.

• Appaloosa:  a breed of horse known for variation of spotting on the coat.  As pertianing to donkeys, refers to a solid coat color with variations of spotting.  True horse pinto, horse aging gray, horse appaloosa, palomino and buckskin do not occur in the donkey. (see "buckskin", "pinto" and "palomino")

• Ass:  the mammal Equus africanus asinus better known as the donkey. (see "donkey")

• Bay:  brown color, though not as red-toned as in horses.

• Bray:  raspy, brassy Bray, the characteristic Aw-EE, Aw-EE sound. Donkeys and mules (and other varieties of Equus africanus asinus) are the only equines to bray when breathing in & out.

• Buckskin:  light brown, golden or yellowish body color with dark mane and tail and sometimes dark legs.  True horsepinto, horse aging gray, horse appaloosa, palomino and buckskin do not occur in the donkey. (see "palomino", "pinto" and "appaloosa")

• Burro:  the burro is a small donkey used primarily as a pack animal. In addition, significant numbers of feral burros live in the Southwestern United States, where they are protected by law, and in Mexico. In the western United States, the word "burro" is sometimes used interchangeably with the word "donkey" by English speakers.

• Carriage: a four wheeled vehicle drawn behind a horse, donkey or other animal (not be confused with "cart").

• Cart: a two wheeled vehicle drawn behind a horse, donkey or other animal (not to be confused with "carriage"). 

• Catalonian:  the Catalan donkey is a subspecies of the donkeys from which the donkeys of the middle east and Europe originated. The Catalonian donkey, always black, is finer-boned and less drafty-looking than the Andalusian variety, often 15hands but fine of bone.

• Coffin Bone:  The coffin bone is a small triangular bone inside the hoof which attaches the suspensory structures of the leg to other weight bearing structures in the hoof and leg. (see "hoof")

• Colic:  colic is a broad term that refers to any condition causing abdominal pain. Because donkeys can be less expressive than ponies and horses, many people think that they must therefore be less sensitive. In reality, donkeys are very susceptible to physical ailments such as colic, which can prove fatal if left untreated.

• Coronet: sometimes called "coronet band".  Refers the hairline at the top of thehoof.

• Cross:  the black line that all donkeys have running perpendicularly from shoulder to shoulder across the withers.

• Croup:  the topline of the hindquarters, beginning at the hip, extending proximate to the sacral vertebrae and stopping at the dock of the tail (where the coccygeal vertebrae begin); sometimes called "rump". 

• Dapple:  sometimes referred to as Dappled Roan, where the face and legs are light and the body has darker circular areas.  Donkeys have "reverse" dapples, dark spots on a light background, as opposed to the horse dapple where the dapples themselves are light surrounded by darker hair.  (see "roan")

• Donkey:  the donkey or ass, Equus africanus asinus, is a domesticated member of the Equidae or horse family. The wild ancestor of the donkey is the African Wild Ass, E. africanus. In the western United States, a small donkey is sometimes called a burro(from the Spanish word for the animal).  (see "burro")

• Dorsal stripe:  most donkeys, even those who appear "Black" have a dorsal stripe that runs along the spine from poll to tail.  Nearly all have a transverse stripe across the withers.  This is called the "cross" in donkeys and mules.  The dorsal is solid, and unbroken except in the case of spotted donkeys, where the white masks out the underlying base color and cross area.  Some shoulder stripes will be WIDE (bold), some are pencil-thin.  The ends of the crossmay taper, fade, or be dashed.

• Draft: refers to animals used to pull loads or other heavy work.  Large, draft-type donkeys originated with the Andalusian-type donkey, and today are seen in the United States as the American Mammoth Jack, a mix of many other large donkey breeds.  (see "Mammoth Jackstock" and "Andalusian")

• Dun:  "dun" in donkeys is currently being studied.  The typical coloration of many donkeys is "Gray-dun" or "Slate gray".  Although it resembles grulla (dun on black) in some ways, the genetic action may be different.

• Dun Factor:  refers to the dark stiping or barring on the hocks and forearms, and the presence of adorsal stripe.  "Dun Factor" can range from minimal to quite notable depending on the animal.

• Easy keeper:  an animal that can live on relatively little food, like many donkeys. If overfed with too rich a diet, the easy keeper is prone to obesity and other health problems, including laminitis and metabolic disorders.

• Farrier: An individual who trims and/or shoes hooves of equines and other hooved animals. (see "hoof")

• Fetlock: the ankle, or first joint above the hoof.

• Foal:  an equine that is one year old or younger.

• Fodder: animal feed is any agricultural food stuff used specifically to feed domesticated livestock such as cattle , goats , sheep.

• Forage:  plant material (mainly plant leaves and stems) eaten by grazing livestock.

• Forelock:  the continuation of the mane, which hangs from between the ears down onto the forehead of the donkey. Donkeys do not have a true forelock, although sometimes the mane grows long enough to comb down between the ears toward the eyes.

• Founder: equine laminitis is a vascular disease of the hoof associated with areas of ischemia or hemostasis within the laminae. The laminae secure the coffin bone/distal phalanx to the hoof wall. Inflammation associated with delamination interferes with the wall/bone bond. In advanced laminitis, the coffin bone becomes detached from the horny wall and may rotate or sink within the hoof. In lay terms, this is known as “founder,” from the maritime term meaning to sink.

• French Poitou:  a breed of donkey that has a thick matted and tangled coat, which originates from the Poitou region of France. (learn more)

• Gastric Ulcers:  equids form ulcers in the stomach fairly commonly. Risk factors include confinement, infrequent feedings, a high proportion of concentrate feeds, such as grains, excessive non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug use, and the stress of shipping and showing. Gastric ulceration has also been associated with the consumption of cantharadin beatles in alfalfa hay which are very caustic when chewed and ingested. Most ulcers are treatable with medications that inhibit the acid producing cells of the stomach.

• Gelding:  castrated male donkey.

• Gray-Dun: the typical coloration of many donkeys. Also called slate-gray. Gray color with dun markings. (see "dun")

• Grulla: a gray or slate color of dun with black points. (see "dun")

• Hand(s): a hand is 4 inches in a measurement of an equine.  Donkeys are measured from the ground to the top of the wither.  (i.e. 14 hands = 56")

• Hinny:  offspring of a male horse crossed with a female donkey (jennet or jenny). In contrast to the more common cross of a male donkey with a female horse, whose offspring is a "mule". (see "hybrid")

• Hoof:  the lower digit of each leg, or the foot. The hoof is comprised of three primary parts; 1) horn; the external, tubular material that is similar to Velcro in the way it binds to the coffin bone, 2) frog: soft but durable fleshy triangular portion on the bottom of the foot which acts as a circulatory pump and shock absorber, and 3) sole; the bottom surface of the hoof that protects the internal structures. While complex in nature, the hoof is a very strong appendage that can withstand many pounds of pressure and stress. The hoof grows continually, and either wears naturally on rough or rocky terrain, or needs to be trimmed regularly by a qualifiedfarrier. (see "farrier" and "coffin bone")

• Hybrid:  a male donkey (jack) can be crossed with a female horse to produce a "mule". A male horse can be crossed with a female donkey (jennet or jenny) to produce a "hinny".  Horse-donkey hybrids are almost always sterile because horses have 64 chromosomes whereas donkeys have 62, producing offspring with 63 chromosomes. Mules are much more common than hinnies.

• Hyperlipidemia:  hyperlipidemia is a disease that affects very fat donkeys, mules and ponies. Hyperlipidemia is a condition in which there is an elevated level of lipids(fat) in the blood stream. This includes both triglycerides and cholesterol being elevated. Hyperlipidemia can be caused by a genetic defect that affects fat metabolism. However, many cases of hyperlipidemia are actually secondary results of a different disease like diabetes or cushings disease. Obesity combined with stress of some type is one of the major factors leading to the hyperlipidemia. Other factors include hormonal imbalances, or losing weight to rapidly. Because of this sudden weight loss, or stress, the body hormones mistakenly think that the donkey is starving and causes the release of large amounts of fat that have been stored in the body cells. Due to the large amounts of fat in the blood stream, the brain also releases another hormone that shuts off the animals appetite.

• Jack:  intact male donkey.

• Jennet:  female donkey.

• Jenny:  female donkey.

• Laminitis:  inflammation of the sensitive laminea of the hoof.   In some severe cases, rotation of the pedal bone (within the hoof) happens, and that may progress to perforation of the sole.   The disease is a local manifestation of a more generalized metabolic disturbance, and the hoof problems are classified as acute, subacute, or chronic.  It can develop on two feet or all four feet.  The most common causes of laminitis are ingestion of excess carbohydrate (grain overload) and grazing of lush pastures.  The risk is higher in equines that are overweight and unfit.

• Leg Barring: barring or zebra stripes on the legs as part of the "dun factor" characteristics.  (see "dun factor")

• Light Points:  white muzzle and eye rings, and a white belly and inner leg.

• Mammoth Jackstock:  the American Mammoth Jackstock was developed beginning in the earliest days of the United States, and it has been an integral part of American agricultural history. Mammoth Jacks are sturdy and tall, with massive legs and large, well-made heads. The ears are especially long, often measuring 33" from tip to tip. Selection has always been made for size and substance. Traditionally, males were expected to stand at least 14.2hands (58") high at the withers and females 14 hands (56"). Many animals were taller than this. The weight varied with the height and ranged between 900 and 1,200 pounds. Black used to be considered the only suitable color for the breed, as black Jackstock bred to Percheron mares produced dark colored mules that were easy to match as teams. For the last few decades, however, the market has favored sorrel draftmules, produced by breeding a sorrel jack and a Belgian mare. As a result, the predominant color of the American Mammoth Jackstock has also become sorrel. With this change in color has come a change in type as well, as the sorrel animals tend to be more coarse in conformation than the blacks. (see "hands")

• Marjorcan:  the Majorcan donkey is from Spain. So many Majorcan donkeys were exported from Spain that there are no known populations in Spain today.

• Miniature Mediterranean:  miniature donkeys are native to the Mediterranean islands of Sicily and Sardinia. They are identified as either Sicilian or Sardinian donkeys according to their ancestry, although the two types do not differ. They have been extensively bred with each other and with animals of unidentified ancestry in the United States to produce a distinctively American breed of donkeys, which we call the Miniature Mediterranean Donkey. According to all information that can be aquired, these donkeys are nearly extinct in the land of their origin.  They have been brought to their current excellence elsewhere by breeders, primarily in the United States, who have carefully selected size, friendly disposition and exceptional conformation. ADMS

• Mule: the offspring of a male donkey and a female horse.  In contrast to the less common cross of a male horse with a female donkey, whose offspring is a "hinny". (see "hybrid")

• No Light Points:  dark muzzle, no eye rings, dark on belly. No light points anywhere on the donkey.

• Palomino: golden or yellowish body color with lighter or white mane and tail.  True horse pinto, horse aging gray, horse appaloosa, palomino and buckskin do not occur in the donkey. (see "buckskin", "pinto" and "appaloosa")

• Pastern:  the connection between the coronet and thefetlock, made up of the middle and proximal phalanx. (see "coronet" and "fetlock")

• Pinto:  "pinto" refers to large solid patches of white and any body color on the same animal.  True horse pinto, horse aging gray, horse appaloosa, palomino and buckskin do not occur in the donkey. (see "appaloosa", "palomino" and "buckskin")

• Poll:  the area of skull between the ears.

• Purebred:  modern donkeys can strongly resemble ancestral breeds in TYPE, but are not classified as those breeds unless they have traceable purebred pedigrees to those lines.

• Roan: roan in donkeys is different than the roan horse color; the head is not darker, the legs are white, and there are dark spots called "reverse dapples". This strawberry roan donkey shows reverse dapples, or dark red spots with white around them.

• Rump:  as compared to a horse, the rump of a donkey has a sharper, more sloping croup. The pelvic bones are at a higher angle, therefore the Donkeycroup is higher and rump narrower. The rump should be strong and gently sloping. There should be good length from point of hip to point of buttock.  The hindquarters provide most of the Donkey's impulsion and they act as pistons to thrust the animal forward. A thin, "Goose Rump" can indicate an animal is in poor condition, may appear out of proportion and may reflect weak conformation. (see "croup")

• Throatlatch:  the point at which the windpipe meets the head at the underside of the jaw.

• Tyger spot:  tyger spots may be a different pattern, but as in many horses, the spots are often bled together regardless of pattern, so the lines between the different visual aspects is no longer clear.

• Wither:  the wither is the top of the shoulder, at the base of the mane, about where the donkey cross is. (see "cross")

Source: http://www.eeebray.com

Basic facts about donkeys

 

Donkeys, zebras and mules all differ somewhat from horses in conformation. The most noticeable difference is of course the ears. Donkeys ears are MUCH longer in proportion to their size than a horse’s. The necks are characteristically straighter in the longears, and most donkeys and all zebras lack a true wither. The croup and rump are also a different shape in the donkey and it’s hybrids, lacking the double-curve muscled haunch. The back is straighter due to the lack of withers. Dipped or swayed backs are a conformation fault, unless in old animals or brood jennies who have produced many foals, and not due to genetic factors.

The mane and tail in the donkey are coarse. The mane is still and upright, rarely laying over, and the tail is more like a cow's, covered with short body hair for most of the length, and ending in a tasseled switch. Donkeys do not have a true forelock, although sometimes the mane grows long enough to comb down between the ears toward the eyes. Because the mane is stiff and sometimes flyaway, many donkeys, especially show stock, wear their manes clipped short or shaved close to the neck.

Hoof shape varies as well, donkey hooves are smaller and rounder, with more upright pasterns. The legs should have good bone, but many donkeys of common breeding may appear to have long thin legs with tiny feet. Larger Asses such as the Poitou or Andalusian types may appear opposite, with huge, heavy shaggy legs and large round feet. Good legs and feet are essential for breeding Mules, as a good foot is much preferable to a large body on tiny stick legs and feet.

The vocal qualities are the frequently remembered differences in the long-ears. The donkey’s voice is a raspy, brassy Bray, the characteristic Aw-EE, Aw-EE sound. Jacks especially seem to enjoy braying, and will "sound off" at any opportunity.

Although many donkeys are the familiar gray-dun color, there are many other coat shades. Most donkeys, regardless of coat color, will have dorsal stripes and shoulder crosses, dark ear marks, as well as the "Light Points" -- white muzzle and eye rings, and a white belly and inner leg. Leg barring ("garters" or "zebra stripes" may be present as well. Small dark spots right at the throatlatch, called "collar buttons" are a good identifying marking and occur occasionally. These typical donkey markings may be passed on in part or in whole to Mule or Hinny offspring.

Colors in the donkey range from the gray shades of gray-dun to brown, a rare bay, black, light-faced roan (both red and gray), variants of sorrel, albino-white (also called cream or white-phase), Few-spot white, and a unique Spotted pattern. True horse pinto, horse aging gray, horse Appaloosa, palomino and buckskin do not occur in the donkey. The more unusual colors are the Dappled Roan, where the face and legs are light and the body is marked with "reverse" dapples (dark spots on a light background, as opposed to the horse dapple where the dapples themselves are light on dark), frosted gray (with light faces and legs and some white hairs in the coat) the pink-skinned, blue-eyed albino white, and the few-spot white. The few-spot white is off of spotted lines, and can throw either more Few-spots or true spotted colts. The animals are best defined as a spotted animal where the skin is spotted but the color does not necessarily show through on the coat. Few-spots can be identified from albino white by checking the skin around the eyes and muzzle. Albino/creams will have blue eyes and true pink skin, while few-spots will have dark eyes, dark "eyeliner" and dark spotting on the skin. Another unusual variant of the spotting line is the "tyger spot" pattern. These donkeys vary from the typical large spots over the ears, eyes, and topline. The body will be covered with small round spots resembling the Appaloosa type.

Donkeys come in a variety of sizes from the Miniature Mediterranean (under 36 inches) to the elegant Mammoth Jackstock (14 hands and up). The rare French Poitou donkey, characterized by it’s huge head and ears, and very thick, shaggy, curled black coat, can stand 14 to 15 hands high. (There are fewer than 200 purebred Poitous left in the world today.) The types of donkeys are labeled by their sizes: 36" and under, Miniature Mediterranean; 36.01-48", Standard; 48.01" to 54 (jennets) or 56 (jacks), Large Standard; and 54/56" and over, Mammoth Stock.

Donkeys are healthy, hardy animals but should receive the same vaccinations and wormings as a horse. Their hooves also need periodic trimming. They often live for 25 or more years.

Donkeys can be used just like horses under saddle and in harness, although donkeys are more laid back and self-preserving in nature. They prefer to do what is good for the donkey, which is not always what the human thinks is best (especially when it comes to getting their feet wet.). They are very friendly, and their nature makes them excellent for children. Donkeys can perform all the gaits horses or mules do (yes, some are even "gaited", exhibiting a single-foot gait), but galloping is usually not on the program unless dinner is being served. Donkeys can also make wonderful guard animals -- a donkey gelding or jennet will take care of an entire herd of cattle, sheep or goats -- the natural aversion to predators will inspire the donkey to severely discourage any canine attacks on the herd. Dogs and donkeys usually don’t mix, although they can be trained to leave the house or farm dog alone!

Source: http://www.donkeys.com

A Guide to Donkey Care

INTRODUCTION

Selecting your donkeys
Owning or caring for a donkey is most rewarding, although very few realise just how much time, effort and expense goes into the care of these wonderful creatures.

There are several points you need to consider before acquiring your donkeys:
• Why do you want donkeys?
Donkeys are wanted for many reasons, as pets, companion animals, for riding or driving, for showing, working on smallholdings or for breeding purposes.
• Do you have the time and commitment needed to look after them?
• Do you have an acre of well fenced grazing with a shelter with a hard standing, fresh water supply and electricity? (A minimum of one acre for two donkeys.)
• Do you have a vet and farrier who are prepared to undertake their routine treatments?
• Do you have a supplier of hay and straw? Do you have storage space for hay and straw over the winter months?
• Can you remove your muck heap regularly?
• Cost of caring for a donkey, we give a very general guide of £500 per year
- can you afford this? You should also be aware of the need to maintain adequatecontingency funds to meet unexpected veterinary bills and we would advise the need for third party insurance.

You should be fully aware of the commitment you are making.  Although the average age for donkeys in the UK is 27, donkeys can live to over 40 years old.  Therefore owning a donkey is a long-term commitment.

Donkeys are seen advertised for sale in local papers and equine publications, as well as being soldat markets.  Once you have decided that donkeys are for you then we always recommend that you take an experienced person with you when looking.  There are also donkey breed organisations, so if you are looking for a particular type of donkey then this may be your best option. The Donkey Sanctuary has produced a fact sheet called Buying a Donkey to assist you in this process. 

The Donkey Sanctuary runs a Foster Scheme if you are looking to give a home to a pair of donkeys or mules.  Please ring the Welfare Department for further details.

Donkeys can be territorial and new arrivals should be introduced carefully over a stable door.  If possible allow new donkeys to explore their new home and settle in before allowing the new and old to mix.  When donkeys are mixed for the first time ensure that they have plenty of space to avoid each other if they wish.

Take care with small pets such as: dogs, cats, poultry or lambs, as some donkeys will chase them thinking that they pose a threat.

For safety, an adult should always accompany young children into the donkeys' field.

Donkeys are versatile animals and can have many uses, for children to ride, for driving and showing or to do light draught work around a property or simply as pets.  All these factors will determine the size and the character of the donkeys suitable for your individual needs.  Donkeys for riding, driving
or working should be between the ages of 4 and 25 and should have a veterinary examination to ensure they are physically fit to work.

An average donkey of approximately 11 hands high or 160 kg should not carry more than 50kg (8 stone) on its back and we recommend that a donkey should pull no more than twice its body weight on level ground including the weight of a well balanced and maintained vehicle.  If the donkeys are required just as pets then some older donkeys, or donkeys that could use a little bit of extra love and attention, may fit the bill.

If you obtain donkeys through The Donkey Sanctuary Fostering Scheme then the donkeys will have had a thorough medical examination and will have received all their vaccinations, been wormed and had regular hoof trimming.  If donkeys are purchased from a market or private home then this may not have been done.

Unless you intend to breed donkeys, you should not have a stallion.  Stallions by their nature can beextremely unpredictable especially if there is a mare in season nearby.  Stallions need experienced handlers and are not suitable for children to handle or ride.  Geldings (castrated stallions) and mares both have their own behaviour traits, playful geldings may romp and fight like schoolboys, mares come into season and need more understanding handling at this time.  A pair of donkeys of the same sex will be just as happy as a mare and gelding combination.

If you would like help or advice in selecting your donkeys then contact the Welfare Department at The Donkey Sanctuary.

Donkeys are different!
There is a tendency to treat donkeys as if they are small horses, but donkeys are different!  Donkeys are not like horses; they differ physically, mentally and emotionally.

External features:

Ears - The long ears of the donkey, which are well supplied with blood vessels, are a desert adaptation for cooling the body.

Tail - The unusual tail resembles that of a cow because it is covered with
short body hair except for the tuft on the end.

Chestnuts - Ergots or chestnuts are practically nonexistent on the hind legs of donkeys.

Vertebral column - The donkey, like the Arabian horse, lacks the fifth lumbar vertebra in the spinal column normally found in other equine skeletons.

 

Hooves - Donkeys have hooves that are more upright, smaller, tougher and more elastic than those of horses.  Consequently, donkey hooves rarely need to be shod except, perhaps, if it is a working donkey.

Coat - Donkeys' coats tend to be longer and coarser than those of the horse, although texture can vary.  It is important to note that donkeys do not produce as much natural grease as horses and, therefore, donkeys are more susceptible to climatic conditions such as rain, wind and snow.  Insulation from heat or cold is largely created by air pockets between the longer hairs.

Mane - Short and seldom exceeding several inches.

Forelock - Donkeys do not have a true forelock.

Vestigial teats -  The male donkey usually has vestigial teats on the prepuce, unlike the horse.

Genetics:
Donkeys 62 chromosomes
Horses 64 chromosomes (przewalski horse - 66)
Mules 63 chromosomes

Behaviour:
Donkeys are more stoical in their behaviour and tend to startle less than horses, whereas horses have a strong flight instinct and are more easily startled. Often donkeys will show limited fear response to novel situations, compared to horses, and this can be mistaken for stubbornness rather
than fear.

Donkeys may present different clinical signs to horses, for example a donkey with abdominal pain may not behave like a horse with the same problem.

Donkeys will develop strong emotional attachments with another animal, even when they are pastured with several other animals.  Horses are herd animals and prefer to be in a large group.

Bonding:
Donkeys can bond very strongly with their companions which has implications for their management.

Donkeys can form lifelong friendships and do not like being kept alone.  We recommend that they are kept with a companion, preferably another donkey.  Donkeys can bond very closely with their friend and may become distressed when they are separated. Some donkeys are bonded so strongly
that even separating them over a stable door can cause them to become stressed. It is, therefore, unwise to use a single donkey as a companion for a horse or pony, as the donkey may become distressed when the horse/pony is taken out for a ride.

Bonded donkeys need to be kept together at all times unless directed otherwise by a veterinary surgeon. If one of the pair is unwell and has to be transported to the vets it must be accompanied by its friend to avoid stress and the possibility of hyperlipaemia.

A lone donkey will tend to bray as he is hoping for a response from other local donkeys.  Donkeys living alone may bond with other animals living nearby for example: sheep, ponies, cows, goats, geese, chickens and dogs. A pair of donkeys will live quite happily together, or in a group with other equines.

Longevity:
A donkey's average life expectancy at the Donkey Sanctuary is 27 years, but donkeys can live to be over 40 years old.

Lungworm (Dictyocaulus arnfieldi):
Lungworms can be present in large numbers in the donkey without the animal showing any signs. However the donkey can pass on the infection to the horse, which will suffer from lung problems, coughing and discharge from the nostrils.  If donkeys and the horses that are kept with them are
regularly wormed this should not be a problem but consult your vet re a suitable deworming product.

Nutrition:
Donkeys browse as well as graze.  Donkeys will eat coarse herbage in their pasture, which most horses will not eat.  There is a subtle difference in the metabolism and physiology of the donkey and the horse.  Donkeys have adapted to a high fibre diet, having their origins in regions where vegetation is dry and sparse. 

Mule/Hinny:
Donkeys and horses can produce hybrid offspring.  Crosses between donkeys and horses/ponies:
Mule – cross between a male donkey and female horse/pony
Hinny – cross between a female donkey and male horse/pony

Mules and hinnies differ in appearance, stature and temperament.  It is said that mules generally have the body of a horse with the extremities of a donkey, whereas the hinny has the body of a donkey with the extremities of a horse. The Donkey Sanctuary has produced a fact sheet on mules
and hinnies.

 

GUIDE TO DONKEY HUSBANDRY

Donkey behaviour - daily care and general handling

Despite their domestication by humans donkeys continue to be a product of their evolution. Ancestors of our modern donkey survived mainly by running away from predators.  If a donkey had no option and their life depended on it, they would be forced to fight and that means kicking and biting.  Modern donkeys have the same survival instincts despite their domestication.

In the wild donkeys only have two decisions to make.  These are to deal with a problem or not to deal with a problem, hence their evolution has meant donkeys are not great problem solvers.  The domestic donkey generally has to deal with all difficult situations it encounters such as the farrier, the vet, traffic, loading into a lorry or any of the tasks we ask of a donkey that it would not encounter in the wild and this should be kept in mind whenever a donkey is being handled.

These guidelines should be followed whenever a donkey is being trained:
• Training should take place in a safe environment.
• The lesson should always be small enough to allow the donkey to succeed.
• The trainer should use the principles of shaping behaviour while training.
• Never rush, always allow sufficient time to complete the lesson.
• Use positive reinforcement to reward good behaviour.
• Use imagination, if a particular method is not working then try something else.
• Punishment should be avoided as a method of training donkeys.

Always accept that the donkey may be scared or frightened rather than naughty or bad.

Donkeys have complex methods of communication.  A donkey's body language is its main method of communication and it relies on body language as much as we humans rely on speech for conveying our thoughts and fears.  Donkeys will use their bodies to express their emotions and feelings.

The key to working with donkeys is to accept that there is always a reason for particular donkey behaviour.  Try to look at things from the donkey's point of view and understand how the donkey feels.

There are differences in behaviour between the sexes.  Stallions by their nature can be extremely unpredictable especially if there is a mare in season nearby.  Stallions need experienced handlers and may not be suitable for children to handle or ride.

Geldings (castrated stallions) may romp and fight like schoolboys. 

Mares come into season and need more understanding handling at this time.  A mare coming into season will show her interest in any male donkey by making chewing movements with her mouth and presenting her rear end for service.  Pairs of donkeys may simulate service during a mare's season.
A pair of donkeys of the same sex will be just as happy as a mare and gelding combination.

The Donkey Sanctuary has produced a fact sheet on the behaviour of donkeys.

Catching
A donkey will need to be caught for routine grooming and hoof care.  This also allows the donkey to be checked over for signs of poor health and it will familiarise him with being handled.  Also when the farrier comes to trim his hooves (every 6-10 weeks) then he will be happily caught, handled and
he will be more likely to hold his feet up without struggling.

If a donkey is shy then he may not be happy to be approached to start with.  It is best not to try to bribe him with tit bits as this may encourage the donkey to snatch the treat and run away or bite. The use of a bribe often means the donkey learns not to trust the handler and cannot be bribed in the
future.  By being aware of body language you can show him that the handler is not a threat.  Different posture and changes of eye contact with the donkey will tell him if a human is a friend or a predator.

Quality time spent with the donkey allows the donkey to relax and learn the value of human contact. Make this time as positive as possible using a soft voice tone to speak to the donkey.  If possible scratch the withers and gently scratch the ears.  Make a fuss of the donkey but allow him time to
himself to relax and be with other donkeys.

It is often helpful to allow the donkey to come up to the handler of his own choice.  If the donkey steps forwards, stand still and wait for him.  If the donkey walks away when approached continue to walk toward him slowly and confidently.  This will teach the donkey that walking off does not mean
he can avoid being caught.  If the donkey stands still, stop following and relax for a 5-10 seconds before continuing to approach the donkey.  Once the donkey is reached do not pounce with the head collar!  Take time to reward the donkey with scratches or rubs on the withers and back.

Talking to the donkey may help calm the situation and relax the handler, provided a soft calm tone is used.  Any nervousness on the part of the handler will be picked up by the donkey and may make it more difficult for the donkey to relax and be caught, so think positively whenever handling a donkey.

Allow the donkey to sniff the head collar.  Do not attempt to put it on until the donkey is happy to have the head collar all around him.  Short lessons of a few minutes at a time tend to work best, always end a lesson on a good note.

Time taken to train the donkey to be caught will save large amounts of time in the future and prevent the occurrence of stressful situations for handler and donkey.

Purchase a head collar that buckles up under the nose if it’s for a donkey, as donkeys have quite angular noses compared with that of a horse and because of this they are more prone to being rubbed by the buckle if it is on the nose band.

When fitting a head collar, it is important that the noseband is neither too high nor too low, too low and it will interfere with the donkey’s breathing; too high and it could cause rubbing along the cheek bones.  As a rough guide, the noseband should sit half way between the top edge of the nostril and the corner of the eye.  The headband should sit just behind the donkey’s ears
and it should be possible to fit two fingers under the strap.  The strap which passes under the donkey’s throat should, again, be neither too tight nor too loose. 

We would strongly advise that a head collar is never left on the donkey continuously as he may get caught up on something or catch a foot in it when scratching.  However, should it be necessary it is safer to use a cheap leather head collar rather than a nylon one which would not break in an emergency. A range of field safe head collars, which are designed to prevent field injuries, can now also be purchased from most tack shops.

Handling
Fit the head collar and lead rope, making sure that the head collar fits comfortably and attach the lead rope to the centre ring under the chin, ensuring the hook faces backwards to prevent pinching.

Stand quietly with the donkey, and do not tie him up at this stage.  Hold the slack end of the lead rope and gradually get the donkey used to being handled all over his body and down the legs. Once the donkey is happy to be handled progress to the use of a soft brush to groom the donkey.

Tail swishing and foot stamping by the donkey can indicate that he is uncomfortable.  Try not to react to this behaviour but instead wait until the swishing or stamping stops for a moment and then move away from the area that caused this reaction from the donkey.  This type of reaction by the trainer teaches the donkey patience and tolerance and that standing still stops any discomfort rather than stamping feet.

Always be conscious of safety.  A young or worried donkey may threaten to kick out by lifting his back leg up or if very frightened could even kick.

Let him know when he has been good by giving him a scratch on the withers and then giving him a break from the training session.  The lesson for the donkey to learn is that standing still when being handled brings positive rewards.

Always choose a positive moment to finish your session, as the donkey will remember that part most clearly.

Leading
The aim is for the donkey to walk alongside the handler with a slack rope.  The handler should be positioned level with or just in front of the donkey's shoulder.

Do not wrap the end of the lead rope around your hands, as this could cause injury if the donkey pulls away.

Initially, work from the near side (left), but eventually the donkey should learn to lead from either side. If leading on the public highway the handler should be between the donkey and the traffic and walk on the left hand side of the road. Reflective clothing should be worn by the handler.

The donkey’s natural instinct is to pull against any pressure on its head that is caused by pulling on the lead rope.  Therefore the aim of the lesson is to teach the donkey to step into this pressure.  To achieve this pull gently on the rope, watching for a very small amount of movement into the pressure.
As soon as the donkey takes one step towards the handler release the pressure.  Once the donkey realises that the pressure is released when he moves towards the tugging pressure then it becomes easy to increase the number of steps the donkey takes.

To stop the donkey; the handler should take a couple of slower steps to let the donkey know he is about to be asked to stop.  Then stand still and relax your body, keeping the rope slack.  Once the donkey stops consistently well, introduce voice commands.  This will assist in the future if the donkey is to show, drive or be ridden, as he will know the commands "walk on", "stand" and "trot on".

Grooming
Once the head collar is on, do not assume that the donkey will be happy to be tied up.  This is a separate lesson for the donkey.  It may be easier initially to groom him while holding the end of the lead rope, or with an assistant holding the rope, as once tied up he may feel restricted and could
panic.  If the donkey is tied up stay with him at all times.

Tie a piece of string or twine to form a loop to a secure holding ring and the lead rope should be tied to this.  Always use a quick release knot.  If the donkey panics the string will break and save the donkey from hurting himself.  Gardening string or spliced baling twine should be used, as new baling twine will rarely break in an emergency.

Grooming includes picking out the donkey's feet, which should be done every day.  Feel down the legs to check for any signs of injury or swelling before you pick out the hooves.

Start at the withers and run a hand down the shoulder, onto the leg and then down the back of the front leg to the fetlock joint.  Tug gently to encourage the donkey to pick the foot up.  Using the hoof pick, working from heel to toe, pick out any mud and stones.  Check the frog and white line areas for
stones or damage.

If the donkey is not keen to lift his leg, ensure he is balanced evenly on all four feet and then, by gently leaning against his shoulder with a hip, displace his weight onto the opposite leg before asking the donkey to lift the leg again.  Take care not to hold the hoof too far from the ground (particularly in older donkeys that may have arthritis or other painful limb conditions).  Do not bend the leg back more than a 45° angle or the donkey will not be able to balance.  Avoid bringing the leg out to the side as this will be uncomfortable and again he may find it difficult to balance.  Once you
have finished picking out the foot lower it gently to the ground.

When picking up a back leg you should use the hand nearest the donkey and run it along the donkey's body.  This ensures any sudden movement does not startle the donkey.  Continue down the inside of the hind leg from the hock to the hoof and tug gently to encourage the donkey to pick the
foot up. This prevents the arm straying across the donkey's back leg, which could be dangerous if he kicks backwards.  If you put your hand inside the leg at the stifle it may cause the donkey to kick.

Use the same sequence when picking out the hooves, starting with the near fore hoof, then the near hind then off fore then off hind.  The donkey will quickly learn to anticipate and will have the next foot ready for you to clean out.

General grooming
Donkeys need regular brushing to ensure that their coats stay healthy and free from matted areas. Grooming provides a chance to examine the donkeys for any bites, wounds or skin complaints. Grooming also helps you to build up a bond with your donkey.

Do not brush your donkey when the coat is wet, as this will allow water or dirt to reach the skin and this increases the chances of skin infections such as rain scald.

In the winter, donkeys in the UK grow thick coats, which provide protection from the weather. Unless donkeys are doing a lot of work, they should not be clipped out, and bathing should only be done in warm weather.  The exception to this rule is the old donkey that, as a result of hormonal disturbance, may have grown an excessively hairy coat, which a veterinary surgeon may advise requires clipping in summer and winter. Your veterinary surgeon may also require a donkey to be clipped to aid treatment of certain skin conditions.

When moving around a donkey keep a hand in contact with his body so he is not startled.  It is preferable to walk around the front of the donkey whenever possible.  If it is not possible to walk around the front then allow enough space while walking around the rear of the donkey to avoid being kicked.

Grooming equipment
The equipment used to groom donkeys is designed for horses, so can be purchased from any good tack shop or saddlers.

The grooming kit should include the following:

Dandy brush - should be used to remove caked mud and dirt from the main part of the donkey’s body.  Do not use the dandy brush on tender parts of the donkey as the hard bristles may irritate the donkey i.e. the face, legs and ears.  Soft bristle dandy brushes are available and are ideal for donkeys when they have moulted out their coats in the summer.

Plastic currycomb - can be used on the long dirty coat in the same way as the dandy brush or it can be used to clean the dirt out of the brushes when used in conjunction with the body brush on the short summer coat.

Rubber currycomb - can be used when the donkey is moulting.  Use circular motions on the shoulders, neck, back and hindquarters to loosen all the dead hair.  The donkeys really enjoy having this done.

Body brush (with soft bristles) - the body brush lifts the dirt and grease out of the coat and if the coat is short and fine it will help make it shine.  Do not use the body brush on the body in the winter months, as donkeys do not
produce much natural grease in their coats and need to retain the grease for protection.  It can be used on the sensitive areas that the dandy brush cannot.

Hoof pick with brush is best for cleaning feet and cotton gauze swabs for cleaning eyes etc. We no longer advise the use of cotton wool, as even when damp, cotton wool can leave behind tiny fibres, which may cause irritation.

The metal cattle comb is used to remove excess hair  from the donkey’s coat when they shed their coat in spring and summer.

A metal curry comb is used only for cleaning brushes; it is not used for donkey grooming, which can be done with a plastic curry comb. 

Start with the dandy brush on the left side of the donkey at the top of his neck.  Work backwards towards the rear of the donkey, following the direction of hair growth.  The object is to remove caked dirt and sweat marks. Use your hands to check him all over even when he is wet and
cannot be brushed. This is the most effective way of detecting lumps, bumps and cuts etc.

Once the body has been groomed then brush the donkey's face, ears, legs and mane with the body brush keeping it clean with the plastic curry comb.  Other areas such as the belly, between the front legs and body can also be brushed with the body brush. Use a body brush to brush out the tail.

Any discharge from the eyes, nose and tail areas can be wiped with damp cotton swabs.  To prevent the risk of cross infection use a separate swab for each eye and each nostril and the tail area. Dispose of all soiled swabs carefully.

Hoof oil or hoof grease can be applied to the hooves to make them look really smart especially  for showing. 

Grooming kits should be regularly cleaned using warm water and a mild detergent.

Riding your donkey
Donkeys learn by gradual, progressive repetition.  Take into consideration the donkey’s age (ideally between 4 and 25 years), build, conformation and temperament.  If you are unsure of what you are looking for then ask the advice of a professional. Always get a vet to check that your donkey is
physically fit to be ridden.

• Do not attempt to ride your donkey until it has reached the age of four. It is not until then that the bones are fully developed.
• The rider should weigh less than 50kg (8 stone), and must always wear a well-fitted skull cap or riding hat which conforms to current safety standards – BSEN1384 or PAS015 or ASTM F1163, along with boots that have a flat sole and low heel.
• Always ensure that you have an experienced person with you, and if it is the rider’s first time, then lead the donkey around an enclosed area first.
• Always praise the donkey by using your voice, particularly when he behaves well. Always remain calm, with no sudden movements.
• Ensure that an inexperienced rider always has an assistant walking beside and never allow a child to ride on the road unaccompanied.  If leading on the public highway the handler should be between the donkey and the traffic and walk on the left hand side of the road.  Reflective clothing should be worn by the handler and the rider.

Signs of good health
Every owner will, at some time, be concerned that all is not well with their donkey.  By understanding the signs to check for it should be easier to spot an early warning of a problem developing.

It is certainly our experience that donkeys are very stoical by nature.  They generally do not show obvious or dramatic signs of illness or lameness until the problem is well advanced. Familiarity with routine health checks and the behaviour of your own donkeys is the key to early recognition.

For both the new and experienced donkey owner, it is certainly advisable to become used to using the following 5 point check list on at least a daily basis:

• Behaviour.
• Appetite and thirst.
• Faeces (and urine).
• Eyes, nose and resting respiration (breathing).
• Coat and skin.

Behaviour
This is perhaps the single most important check.  A healthy donkey should be alert and aware, interested in what is going on around it with ears pricked.  No donkey should spend prolonged periods lying down.  Healthy donkeys should be able to get up and down easily, and move freely without limping, taking their weight equally on all four legs.  Each donkey will have its own characteristics – e.g. a particular companion, grazing pattern, daily routine.  It is sometimes only a slight change that indicates, at an early stage, a potential problem.  Small changes in normal behaviour are often the first signs of illness, so get to know your donkey’s ways as soon as possible!

Appetite and thirst
Donkeys would naturally graze for long periods of time.  It is therefore important to control their diet to prevent obesity, but a healthy donkey should be looking to eat throughout the day and have no problems chewing or swallowing.

The amount a donkey will drink obviously varies according to air temperature, moisture content of food, workload etc. but routine checking of the water supply may provide evidence of its intake.

Faeces (and urine)
Check for fresh faeces, the consistency of which may alter with diet.  There should be regular output of normal, moist faeces formed into balls, which break up easily.

Male and female donkeys each adopt a different characteristic stance when urinating.  Normal urine is yellow and watery, and may on occasions be cloudy.  It should be passed freely, without straining. Repeated attempts to pass urine, or urine which is obviously discoloured or bloody, should be viewed with suspicion.  Mares in season may be seen to attempt to pass urine more frequently.

Eyes, nose and resting respiration (breathing)
Eyes should be clean and bright, open and free from discharge.  The nostrils equally should be clean and discharge free.  At rest there should be minimal movement of the nostrils as the donkey breathes. In fact it is often difficult to make out the movements of the chest at rest, the movements of the flanks are often the easiest to observe.  A flaring of the nostrils, a marked rise and fall of the ribs and flanks, or any noise associated with the donkey’s respiration should be cause for further investigation.

Exercise, stress, excitement and fever will increase the rate and depth of respiration.

Coat and skin
A healthy donkey should have a flat, clean coat with no signs of itching, bald areas, sores or abnormal lumps and bumps.  It is a good idea to get your donkey used to you routinely running your hands over all areas of the body, legs and head – a donkey’s coat can often hide developing problems.

The above five points should be checked at least on a daily basis.  If you are concerned that all is not well then there are a number of simple tests and checks that you can do yourself.  These will certainly help in giving your vet a full picture of the problem should you feel it necessary to seek further advice.

Additional health checks
• Temperature, pulse, respiration rate (“TPR”).
• Gut sounds.
• Feed test.
• Condition score/heart girth measurement.

Vital signs - “TPR”
Temperature
Normal values:  Adult Range 36.2–37.8ºC (97.2-100ºF), Average 37.1ºC (98.8ºF).
Young donkeys up to 2 years old 36.6-38.9ºC (97.8-102.1ºF).

Buy a clinical thermometer from your vet and ask him how to use it.  Get used to checking your donkey’s temperature so that you feel confident should you suspect that there might be a problem developing. Donkeys are individuals and their normal temperature will vary, so taking your donkey’s
temperature will not only get the donkey used to this procedure but will allow you to record their normal temperature range.

Pulse rate
Normal range: 36-68 Average 44 beats/min. With a little practice anyone can learn to count the pulse in the artery that runs under and across the lower jaw.  Count the number of pulses felt in 15 seconds and multiply by 4.  Keep the donkey’s head still with a hand above the muzzle.  Use the fingertips of the other hand to locate the artery (about 4mm diameter) and by varying the pressure you will soon be aware of the pulsations corresponding to each heart beat. Getting to know what is normal for your donkey is very important so that any changes can be measured against the normal range for the individual.

Respiratory rate
Average 12-20 inspiration/min. It is best to do this with the donkey undisturbed.  Stand back to one side and either watch the rise and fall of the flank or chest or the breath coming out of the nostrils (on a cold day).  Again count the number of breaths (a “rise” and “fall” = one breath) in 15 seconds and multiply by 4. Getting to know what is normal for your donkey is very important so that any changes can be measured against thenormal range for the individual.

Gut sounds
A normal donkey’s digestive system is generally a noisy affair with many squeaks, gurgles and rumbles.  These are particularly evident when the grazing is good but are also audible on winter rations (hay and straw).  Your vet will use a stethoscope to hear these sounds but your own ear placed against the skin of the flanks (between the last rib and the hind leg) should pick up some of them, however great care should be taken as the donkey may kick particularly if in pain.  If you get used to the normal sounds in a healthy donkey this can be a useful test – particularly if you suspect that your donkey may have colic (abdominal pain) or may not be passing faeces.

Feed test
A favourite test at The Donkey Sanctuary is the “ginger biscuit test” although many poorly donkeys will take a biscuit, particularly if they are used to this treat.  A lack of interest is a definite cause for concern.

Condition score/heart girth weight measurement
Keeping a written record of your donkey’s condition score and heart girth is a very useful exercise – especially in the elderly donkey where gradual weight loss might be missed.  A simple measure of heart girth weight measurement recorded regularly will help to monitor your donkey’s condition.  To do this accurately a standard technique should be used.  The donkeys’ height to their withers should be measured in centimetres while standing on level, hard ground. Once a donkey is over four years old this
measurement will only be required once and the same measurement can be used in future weighing.

The heart girth measurement is taken in centimetres using an ordinary tailor’s tape measure. The tape measure should pass around the bottom of the donkey’s chest as far forward as possible and as close to the front legs as possible. The tape measure should cross the top of the donkey’s back
10 centimetres (a hand width) back from the withers. The front of the cross can be a good guide to the position of the withers. The tape measure should not be vertical around the donkey when viewed from the side. The tape should be pulled firmly but carefully around the donkey and the reading
taken in centimetres.

The heart girth should always be taken in the same location preferably by the same person to ensure a continuity of the measurements taken. Both measurements can then be marked on The Donkey Sanctuary weight nomogram, which is included in the back of this guide, and the donkey’s
weight read off the centre scale. e.g. a donkey 110cm tall and with a heart girth 130cm would weigh approximately 217kg.

The monthly weights can then be compared and feed rations and strip grazing adjusted according to the donkey’s dietary requirements. Please note that horse weight tapes do not work on donkeys due to their proportions being so different.

To condition score donkeys use the Body Condition Scoring Chart (refer to chart in back of this guide).  Donkeys are given a condition score between 0 and 5.  0 is very poor and 5 is very fat.  The ideal body condition score is 3.  We recommend you weigh and condition score your donkey at least once a month.

When to call the vet?
If at any time you have concerns over your donkey’s health or well-being then a call to your local vet should help to put your mind at rest.  By providing information on each of the signs of health discussed here, your vet will be able to quickly decide the best course of action to take.

Points to be incorporated into the day:
• Always observe your donkeys’ normal behaviour.
• Check your donkeys morning and evening for injuries.
• Fresh feed and water should always be available.
• Muck out the stable, check droppings and urine are normal.
• Check grazing and fencing for damage and poisonous plants.
• Groom your donkeys; pick out feet, clean eyes, nose and dock areas.

You need to remember the bigger picture.  Your donkeys will also need:
• A routine worming programme as advised by your vet.
• A routine delousing programme as advised by your vet.
• A farrier to visit every 6-10 weeks as advised by your farrier and or vet.
• Annual vaccinations.
• Annual dental checks – older donkeys and donkeys with teeth problems may require more regular checks.

Common skin conditions
Parasites – a number of ectoparasites can cause problems

Flies
In the summer flies can cause great distress and irritation.
• They can spread infection especially around the eyes.
• They can lay eggs in wounds.
• Some donkeys suffer large swellings when bitten.

 

To prevent fly worry, good management includes:
• Removing manure frequently and siting muck heaps as far away from stables as possible.
• Providing field shelters.
• Using fly fringes or masks.
• Insecticides can be used to kill flies.
• Fly repellent can be used on the donkey – a number of preparations are available – some chemical, some herbal.  Always read and follow the safety data for the product purchased.
• The use of a summer sheet or anti fly rug should be considered.

Midges
Culicoides midges cause the condition ‘sweet-itch’ in hypersensitive (or allergic) donkeys.  The midges are very active at dawn and dusk and their bites cause intense irritation to the donkey, leading to excess rubbing - especially on the mane and tail areas.  The sore areas often bleed, attracting more insects.

Again prevention is most effective but can be difficult.
• Stable the donkey at dawn and dusk.
• Use fly repellents several times daily.
• Keep donkeys away from water courses and wet areas where midges congregate.

If your donkey is affected by sweet-itch seek the advice of your veterinary surgeon.

Mites
There are a number of mites that cause intense irritation.  Some types live on the donkey, others live in hay and straw.  They cause irritation by biting, usually on the lower legs or around the head and neck. Your vet may be able to find these on skin samples – various insecticide preparations are available.

Lice
These are mainly found in winter and unlike mites are quite easy to see with the naked eye.  They are often found in large numbers and cause rubbing and hair loss.  A number of anti-louse preparations are available and will need to be used more than once to kill off any unhatched eggs.

Ticks
In the UK ticks are found especially in certain locations with areas of long grass e.g. the New Forest. Usually ticks cause mild irritation at the site of the bite, but they can be implicated in the spread of Lymes disease.  Most insecticides or anti-flea preparations will kill them.  If pulled out, leaving the
head in, an area of irritation can persist.

Rain scald and mud fever
Both of these conditions occur when the skin/hair is wet for a long time, so they mainly occur in winter.  Rain scald affects the shoulders/back and rump, while mud fever affects the lower limbs. The organism responsible is dermatophilus and causes crusting and matting of the hair coat.  When
the hair coat is pulled out there is pus beneath the scabs.  Treatment involves antiseptic washes, good hygiene and dry conditions.  A course of antibiotics is often required so your vet will need to see the donkey.

Ringworm
This fungal skin condition is contagious and if suspected, call your vet for advice and treatment. Lesions sometimes appear as circles with hair loss, but can take different forms and become widespread.  Although it will resolve in 6-12 weeks, treatment should be followed to limit the spread.
Usually washes are used on the donkey and the environment should be disinfected. Ringworm can be transmitted to humans so great care is required when handling a donkey with ringworm, gloves should be worn and hands washed thoroughly after handling the donkey.

Sarcoid
Sarcoids are skin growths that can take a variety of forms, from flat to profuse ‘warty’ masses.  They can be hard to remove completely and often reoccur.  Veterinary treatment will be needed for these, so contact your vet if you discover any suspicious lumps or bumps.

Sunburn/Photosensitisation
Donkeys with pink, unpigmented skin may burn in summer and require daily high factor sun-block application and/or a mask with detachable nose flap.  Some donkeys will also develop sensitivity to the sun if they have liver disease or have eaten certain plants e.g. St John’s Wort.  As you cannot
tell clinically which condition is present, a blood sample is recommended.

There are many other skin problems, which are less common and will need veterinary advice to diagnose and treat.

Footcare
Diseases and problems of the feet are all too common in donkeys.  Proper daily care and attention is essential if problems are to be avoided or minimised in those donkeys already suffering from ongoing conditions.

Here is our checklist for keeping your donkey’s feet healthy:
• Get to know his feet!  Pick them up and remove all the muck and stones daily.
• Keep bedding clean and dry.  Wood shavings or cardboard beds well maintained would appear to be very useful, especially for donkeys with chronic foot problems.  Provide a well-drained, clean exercise area.  Avoid grazing in muddy fields.
• Keep him trim!  Overweight donkeys are more prone to foot problems.
• Encourage regular exercise particularly if housed during the winter.  A daily walk out in-hand  will be good for everyone.
• Find a farrier who regularly trims donkeys’ feet; ask him to visit every 6-10 weeks.  If your donkey has specific problems it may need more frequent visits.  Keep your farrier happy!  The following check list will help keep your farrier happy.

a - Catch the donkey for your farrier and be there to hold the donkey while the farrier works.
b - Ensure the donkeys legs and feet are dry and mud free.
c - Provide a clean, well-lit, preferably concreted area, which is protected from the elements.
d - Seek and follow any advice your farrier may give you, particularly the date when the feet should be seen next.
e - Offer a cup of tea and provide prompt payment.

• Avoid laminitis.  Restrict access to new or fast growing grass by use of a moveable electric fence or by limiting grazing to early mornings and bring donkeys off pasture by mid morning. Feeding with hay or straw prior to turning out may help reduce consumption of too much rich grass initially. Grazing frosty grass has also been implicated in increased occurrence of laminitis. Avoid grazing donkeys during frosty periods particularly late frosts followed by bright sunny weather. Avoid obesity.  Take care with feeding. Introduce any supplementary feed slowly and feed small feeds frequently.  Similarly reduce or change feeds slowly usually over 7 days.  Use high fibre/low starch-sugar feeds.  Good quality new hay may need to be introduced slowly in limited amounts.  Have feet well trimmed on a regular basis.
• Seek veterinary help without delay if you suspect lameness or laminitis.
• Individuals prone to “seedy toe” (a disease of the hoof wall when areas become weak, grey and crumbly) or “thrush” (an infection of frog and sole) need particular care and attention.  They must be kept in a clean and dry environment and have their feet picked out daily.  If seedy toe or thrush becomes a problem then professional help needs to be sought.
• Hoof oil/grease is not normally required.  However, occasional use for shows etc. should not be harmful.
• Supplements to encourage hoof growth should only be used on the advice of a vet.

 

FEEDING ADVICE

Basic rules of feeding
• Feed little and often and keep feeding times regular.
• Any change in the feeding regime must always be carried out gradually.
• Always feed according to the donkey’s age, weight and temperament.
• Avoid dusty or mouldy feeds.
• Always have clean water available.
• Access to an equine salt or mineral lick is advisable.
Regular worming and dental checks are necessary to enable the donkey to make efficient use of its feed.

Feeding
In their natural habitat donkeys are lean, fit animals browsing on fibrous plant material, eating small quantities throughout the day and often walking considerable distances.  A well-balanced high fibre diet is ideal for maintaining a healthy donkey in the correct body condition.

• It is a good idea to learn to body score your donkey.  Donkeys should be weighed once a month on livestock scales. Where these are not readily available the heart girth and height measurement method should be used. A gradual change in weight can then be identified if the measurement is undertaken monthly and feed adjusted accordingly.
• Most donkeys, even those undertaking limited exercise, will only require a maintenance ration. Only underweight, old or sick individuals usually need any form of additional feeding.  Restricted grass, hay, straw, with an equine mineral salt lick and water will be all that most healthy donkeys require.  Late or second cut meadow hay is preferable because of the lower fructan sugar levels thus reducing the risk of laminitis.
• Any change in your donkey’s diet should be made gradually, and if extra feeds are required they are better fed in small, frequent feeds rather than simply once a day.  If a donkey is underweight, then a veterinary and dental examination is likely to be necessary.
• Any donkey that is not grazing or is stabled should be given small amounts of fibre, such as straw throughout the day.
• All feed, whether hay, straw or purchased feed should be of good quality and never spoiled, dusty or mouldy.  Particular care should be taken with the feeding and bedding of donkeys with respiratory diseases, particularly those caused by an allergy e.g. to fungal spores.
• When donkeys are at pasture their daily care should not be forgotten (see grazing).  Excessive grazing and overfeeding with insufficient exercise is all too common in donkeys kept in the UK. Obesity is associated with a number of serious problems and diseases.  Prevention is better than cure and dieting an overweight donkey is not an easy task.
• Barley straw should be fed where suitable, as it increases the fibre content of the diet.  However, old donkeys with worn or missing teeth may be unable to chew straw adequately.
• Please see our fact sheet on “What to Feed your Donkey” if you require more information on other foodstuffs.

Dieting your donkey
Becoming overweight is always going to be a risk for donkeys kept in the UK and similar countries. It is a serious risk to health – putting excess strain on the limbs and hooves, affecting internal organs such as the liver and increasing the risk of potentially fatal diseases e.g. hyperlipaemia (a disease of excessive fat metabolism).

Dieting very overweight donkeys is to be strongly encouraged but it is by no means an easy matter. It can be frustratingly difficult and take much longer than might be expected!

Here is our suggested ‘weight watcher’s guide’:
• Is he fat? Learn to condition score.  We would recommend that a healthy donkey should be no more than condition score 3.  (Refer to body condition score chart.)
• What does he weigh?  This provides an objective starting point to refer back to.  Accurate livestock scales are obviously ideal but the heart girth nomogram is an alternative.
• Is it safe to diet?  Newly acquired donkeys and elderly donkeys must be carefully assessed prior to starting any diet.  Always allow a recently arrived donkey time to settle down, preferably managed and fed as he was in the previous home.  Only start the diet when he is content and has adapted to the new environment.  Elderly donkeys may benefit from a full veterinary
examination including a thorough dental check prior to dieting – they must be able to eat, chew and digest effectively any restricted diet or serious problems could ensue.
• What does he eat?  Write down and estimate, or ideally, weigh EVERYTHING he eats each day, including bedding (straw).  This is obviously easier with housed donkeys but careful use of moveable fencing will restrict grazing intake. Work out a plan and stick to it!  Estimate a reduction of approximately 20% of all food items eaten. Feed small, frequent meals rather than one or two large meals.
• Put down a non-edible bed such as wood shavings or cardboard.
• Encourage exercise – walking in hand or encourage the use of a bare grazing strip, with water at one end and a little feed and straw at the other.
• Repeat weight and condition score checks every week.  It may take a couple of months before any changes are noticed, so perseverance is required If there is no change after two months, review diet and reduce by a further 10% (and ensure that the other family members are not offering treats on the sly!).
• Keep a close eye on your donkey for any signs of ill-health or problems developing (for help refer to signs of good health).

 

KEEPING A DONKEY AT GRASS

Grazing
Adequate pasture for grazing and exercise is essential.  Depending on the type of land and quality of grass, a one acre field correctly managed should provide sufficient for a pair of donkeys.

For good pasture management the following points should be considered:
• Most donkeys will become obese on unrestricted grazing.  The sensible use of electric/moveable fencing will enable you to control your donkey’s intake and maintain an area for haymaking if desired.  Electric tape systems are preferable to wire as they are more visible. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.  Keep your fence neat and well maintained and
check it every morning and evening, moving as appropriate.  The rotation of grazed areas can also be very useful in helping to control parasitic worms.
• Limiting grazing time can be a useful way to restrict access to grass as well as restricting grazing area by electric fence. Limiting grazing to early mornings and bringing donkeys off pasture by mid morning may also help prevent laminitis. 
• Check perimeter fences regularly to ensure they are donkey proof and well maintained.
• Ideally pick up dung daily as this prevents the spread of worms. Where this is not possible dung should be removed from the paddock at least twice a week. Donkeys do not like to graze areas spoiled by faeces and a twice weekly pick up will really help to remove many parasitic worms.
• Check regularly for poisonous plants and rubbish, both in the pasture and through the hedge/perimeter fence.  Ragwort, oak and acorns are the most likely problem plants. Yew is also very toxic to donkeys.  Bracken is potentially toxic and some donkeys may develop a taste for acorns, which can cause problems when eaten in quantity.  Remember that poisonous plants are more likely to be eaten if other feed is in short supply. In the autumn the area around oak trees should be fenced off to prevent donkeys from eating acorns. 
• Be very aware of grass cuttings dumped in pasture – grass cuttings can cause fatal colic in donkeys. Also be careful if donkeys are allowed in gardens as many contain exotic plants, which could be poisonous. 
• Be aware of the risks of laminitis from excessive consumption of grass (stressed grass i.e. frosty grass can also be a problem). Donkeys being turned out in the spring after winter housing are particularly susceptible.  It is advisable to feed donkeys hay/straw prior to grazing, for a limited time only, when first turned out.  Fields which have been previously fertilised may pose a greater threat.  Spring, however, is not the only “risk period”.  Whenever grass is growing well it may be a potential problem. Frosty conditions can also increase the threat of laminitic attack.
• Avoid grazing recently fertilised fields until the fertiliser has been taken into the soil by sufficient rain.
• Provide shelter and protection from the elements.
• Check water supplies daily and clean troughs regularly.

The Donkey Sanctuary has produced a fact sheet on poisonous plants.

Fencing
There are many alternative types of fencing, or combinations of fencing, that can be used to contain donkeys.  Two donkeys will require a field of approximately one acre.  Add half an acre per additional donkey.  The acreage required will vary according to the quality of the pasture.

Where possible the field should be divided into two or three paddocks as this will allow greater control of donkey grazing and ease of pasture management.  Fences should be arranged so that the donkeys have free access to the stable or shelter and fresh water at all times.

Hedges
Donkeys like the roughage that the brambles and hawthorn found in hedges will provide.  Donkeys are great escape artists and can eat their way through a hedge before you realise what has happened, therefore you should always have additional perimeter fencing.  Hedging provides natural
shelter and is a natural windbreak.  Remember that hedges can harbour poisonous plants that need to be removed such as: yew, laurel, rhododendron, foxglove, oak, bracken, ragwort and deadly nightshade to name a few.

Wooden post and rail
Although expensive, post and rail fencing with four rails is ideal. Standard post and rail fencing usually only has three bars.  The extra fourth bar should be positioned 45cm (18inches) from the ground as some donkeys will wriggle between the third bar and the ground.  Wooden fences need to be treated periodically, with an animal friendly preservative.

Donkeys may chew the wooden fences.  This may be because they like the fibre and roughage or because they are bored.  If you provide some non-toxic bark covered logs for them to chew and ensure access to feeding straw they are less likely to chew your fences.

Pig netting
Wooden posts with pig/sheep netting tensioned between them are a less expensive option.  It is important to make sure that the netting is tensioned correctly and maintained regularly.  If the bottom of the wire is allowed to become slack and pull away from the fence then the donkeys could put their hooves through the wire and get caught up.  A single wooden rail or a strand of well-tensioned plain wire should be positioned above the netting to prevent the donkeys from the dangerous activity of leaning over to reach the grass or hedging on the other side.

Barbed wire
Wherever possible you should avoid using barbed wire.  If pig/sheep netting is against a boundary hedge then the top strand of wire could be of well tensioned barbed wire. If barbed wire is used in your pastures as a top strand for pig netting, the wire should be well tensioned and regularly inspected. It is not safe to use barbed wire as a dividing fence between paddocks, as the donkeys could run into it. To avoid the risk of lower leg injuries do not use barbed wire below 3ft off the ground.

Electric fencing
This is a versatile and effective method of managing pasture. Electric fencing can be used to create paddocks within an existing field system or to strip graze.  Strip grazing involves running the electric fence across the paddock and moving the fence a set distance each day to control the amount of grass the donkeys are getting.

Setting up an electric fence involves setting out fencing posts, threading tape or wire through and linking it up to a battery powered fencing unit.  At The Donkey Sanctuary we prefer to use the more visible tape than wire.  It is important to measure the length of the electric tape required so that the correct power unit can be purchased.  If the power unit is incorrect the fence will be ineffective.  The instructions supplied with the fencing unit should be followed carefully.

Gateways
During winter months gateway areas, or access points, will become wet and boggy.  The obvious way to prevent this is to keep the donkeys off the
land, shutting them in a covered area, with hard standing.  They can then get turned out when conditions allow.   Not everyone has this luxury so
prevention is better than cure.  Here at the Sanctuary hard wood chippings (bark) is put down during the winter months to prevent gateways
becoming wet and boggy.

Points to be considered
• Always keep water troughs or feed containers away from gateways and trees.
• If you can use another access then do so, this prevents the area becoming too boggy and wet.

Gateways should also be designed to allow easy access both in and out of the field.  All gateways should have good hinges and must be fastened securely, preventing the donkeys from escaping.

Rugs for donkeys
Young healthy donkeys are extremely unlikely to need a rug but due to the donkeys’ lack of a waterproof coat they should always have access to a field shelter or stable.  However, if a donkey is old or sick he will be more susceptible to illness and cold and it will become more difficult to keep weight on him.  A well rugged old donkey will need to eat less to maintain his body weight and temperature than he would if left un-rugged.  To help to keep him warm you can use heat lamps in the stable or a rug.  Modern
materials for rugs include a waterproof, rip-stop nylon that allows the donkey’s coat to breathe and wicks away moisture.  Alternative designs have lightweight cotton linings or padded duvet type linings.  All rugs
should be seam free and lightweight so they are comfortable for the donkeys.  The belly straps mean that there is no need for leg straps, which tend to rub.  The rugs have an optional fillet string (a string that goes under the tail to prevent the rug flapping up over the hindquarters).  There is often a tail flap to allow any rainwater to run off away from the back legs of the donkey.

Out-door (turnout) rugs can also be made of a waterproofed canvas that has a blanket lining, this is known as a New Zealand rug.  This type of rug takes a long time to dry out and has seams that can rub and leak.  They need to be waterproofed often.  Most New Zealand rugs have leg straps that can cause sores.

Rugs should be removed daily and the donkey’s coat underneath brushed before the rug is replaced.  On warm dry winter days it is nice to leave the donkey’s rug off for an hour or two, but ensure the donkey does not become wet or cold.  At the end of the season, or more frequently if necessary, the rug should be cleaned and if required re-proofed.

To measure your donkey for a rug: measure from the centre of the chest along the donkey's side to the point of buttock (see line A on the
diagram), not to the centre of the tail.

If the rug is the correct size for the donkey it should fit snugly but not restrict or prevent movement.  The cross over belly straps should cross over under the centre of the donkey’s belly and should not touch the donkey’s hind legs.  Belly straps should fit closely to the donkey’s belly as this prevents the donkey from catching a leg in the straps when it scratches
or plays.

When fitting the rug to the donkey work slowly and confidently.  Do not lift the rug high and throw it on the back of the donkey, this is likely to frighten the donkey.  Keep the rug low and slide it gently over the back of the donkey.  Position the rug further forward than required, fasten the front straps
and slide it backwards into position, as this ensures the donkey’s hair lies flat under the rug.

Fasten the neck of the rug first and then secure the belly straps.  When taking the rug off undo the belly straps first and then the neck straps.  This method reduces the risk of accidents if the donkey moves and the rug slips before it is unfastened.

A wet donkey should not have a rug on until it is dry.  However, a wicking rug could be used to  help in drawing moisture away from the donkey and will help the donkey to dry before its usual  rug is fitted.

STABLE MANAGEMENT

Shelter

The donkeys’ stable or shelter should provide an area for the donkeys to get out of the heat and flies during the summer and as a refuge from the bad weather in the winter.  The stable should have a floor that drains well and have some form of bedding so that the donkeys can lie down in comfort.

There may be times when donkeys need to be shut in the stable such as when they are ill, when the vet is expected or while the electric fencing is being moved, so there should be a door with a bolt or slip rails to contain the donkeys.

Guide to the ideal shelter
There are a number of points which should be borne in mind when designing a donkey stable:
• Adequate shelter should be accessible at all times. This is not only to offer protection during the winter but also to give shade in the summer.
• There is a wide range of stables and shelters available on the market or you may already have one that is suitable, or would be with alterations.
• Allow approx. 4.5 sq. metres (50 sq. feet) of covered area per donkey, approx. 9sq. metres (100sq. feet) for a pair.
• A well-drained non-slip hard standing floor is essential e.g. concrete or stable brick.
• Provide a drained concrete run out yard.
• Avoid construction materials which allow condensation to develop – especially roofing.
• Ensure adequate ventilation with good air circulation, but avoid excessive draughts at donkey level. Consider the prevailing winds when designing your stable and face the back into the wind.
• Stable doors must allow donkeys to see over with ease – doors for horses are normally too high.
• Protect glazed windows with wire mesh.
• A floor level feed bin or corner floor feeder situated so that feed is not soiled.  The use of a hay net is not advisable as it is better for donkeys to eat from the floor and hay nets when empty can become dangerous for the donkey.
• Fit tying up rings at the correct height for your donkey, i.e. his/her eye level.
• A covered, well lit area with hard standing is a great help to the farrier.
• Site stables or field shelters on well drained ground and avoid areas prone to fly nuisance.  If mobile, move them once the ground starts to become muddy.  (If this is not practical, a good, thick layer  of bark chips spread around is an alternative preventive measure.)

Floor level feeder
In the wild, donkeys graze with their heads down. It is not natural for them to eat from a net or rack.  If they reach up for their food from a net or rack then some particles of hay or straw could fall into their ears or eyes and respiratory problems can be exacerbated.  To prevent this, provide a floor level feeder with no sharp edges.  Place enough straw in the feeder so that they can browse through it, there will be no waste as the remainder can be used for bedding the following day.  If possible, position the feeder so that the donkeys’ feet are not on the bedding while they are eating.  In the winter
you may need to add a small amount of hay to the straw in the feeder if your donkeys are not maintaining their body condition with the grass and straw based diet.  (See fact sheet on measurements for a donkey stable.)

 
Water
Donkeys should always have access to a clean water supply; they are very fussy about what they drink.  A securely supported bucket or a self-filling trough should be constantly available and should be cleaned out daily.  The use of buckets allows the accurate monitoring of water intake but a self filling water trough does mean that the donkeys’ water will not run out during the day or night.

Mineral lick
An equine mineral block should be hung up inside your stable or shelter so that the donkeys can supplement their diet as they wish.  Molasses treat licks are not encouraged due to the amount of Molasses that they contain which can cause the onset of laminitis.

Electricity supply
Electric lights are essential in the winter months and the facility for a heat lamp is useful.  All wiring should be encased in rat-proof tubing and all switches should be donkey proof and positioned outside the stable.  Lights should have plastic covers and wire mesh guards.  Clean cobwebs and dust off regularly.

Bedding
Bedding on the floor of the stable keeps the stable clean and fresh and ensures the donkeys have a warm, dry place to lie down.  Factors that will influence your choice of bedding include storage facilities, cost and disposal of manure.

Straw
There are three main types of straw: barley, oat and wheat.

Barley straw is the preferred bedding for healthy donkeys. Barley straw is lower in feed value than oat straw but higher than wheat straw, it is comfortable for the donkeys to lie on and it drains reasonably well.  If barley straw is not available it is acceptable to use oat or wheat straw. For overweight donkeys it would be better to select wheat straw. Straw is the cheapest form of bedding. If donkeys have respiratory problems or require dieting then a dust free bedding should be considered. You will need to purchase Barley straw for the donkeys to eat, so it is convenient to also use it for bedding.

Oat straw is higher in feed value and more palatable. The donkeys tend to eat more of it and gain weight.

Wheat straw is the lowest in feed value and tends to have prickly ears and is not so comfortable to lie on.  It does not drain very well and can be dusty, causing the donkey to cough.

Shredded wood fibre is a breakthrough in dust free bedding. It is specifically manufactured from finely shredded recycled white wood such as palettes which makes it one of the ‘greenest’ bedding products on the market.  It is made to a very high quality standard and it is rigorously tested for cleanliness and consistency. Shredded wood fibre is sold in sealed 25kg bales so it can be stored outside.  It is free draining, yet absorbent which keeps the surface of the bed dry and because of its consistency is less likely to move when the donkey moves around or gets up and lies down, thus
helping to prevent injury.

Shredded paper bedding is a dust free bedding material which is usually made from any unwanted printing matter such as newspapers and magazines.  Bales come wrapped in polythene which makes them easy to store outside. Paper can make a warm and soft bed which is also highly
absorbent.  However, once wet the paper can become heavy to work with and on windy days will easily blow around the yard.

Dust extracted shavings
Should be of white/soft wood and dust extracted.  Red/hard woods can be poisonous and cause respiration problems.  Shavings can make an alternative bed for a sick or lame donkey that has problems moving around in deep straw.  When dieting an overweight donkey as advised by a veterinary surgeon, the use of shavings allows greater control over the amount of straw the donkey is eating.  Shavings are more expensive than straw and they take longer to rot down.  The shavings absorb urine creating wet patches that should be removed daily.

Shredded cardboard
Is an alternative to shavings making a comfortable, dust free bed for a sick or lame donkey.  When dieting an overweight donkey as advised by a veterinary surgeon, cardboard bedding allows greater control over the amount of straw the donkey is eating.  It is biodegradable but does take a long time to rot down.  It costs about the same as shavings. Donkeys will eat cardboard bedding, so should be carefully observed to ensure there are no ill effects.

Rubber matting
Provides a comfortable safe area for the donkeys to lie down.  Some types have honeycomb areas on the underside for drainage.  A shallow layer of shavings, straw or cardboard must be used to absorb the wet areas. Regular cleaning out is required and the slope of the shelter floor must be correct to allow good drainage under the mats.  Rubber matting can be expensive.

Mucking out
Wet patches or dung on straw, shavings, shredded wood fibre, cardboard or paper beds can either be removed daily or kept on a deep litter system.  A fork, broom, shovel, wheelbarrow, disinfectant and a "pooper scooper" are required to maintain and clean the shelter. Daily mucking out is the best way to monitor your donkeys’ environment and observe any changes in behaviour during your absence.

Deep litter is when dung is removed from the bed and, once a day, a layer of fresh bedding is scattered over the base to keep the surface dry.  The base becomes packed and any urine drains through to the bottom.  Deep litter bases should be removed every four to six weeks.  Problems with deep litter beds include the smell and the build up of bacteria.

Daily mucking out
This is the preferred method, as all dung and wet areas are mucked out on a daily basis.  Clean, dry bedding should be moved to one side as the dung and urine patches are removed.  Sweep the floor area clean and disinfect the floor if necessary.  Leave the bedding up until the floor is dry.  The bed can be left up during the day and put down later in the afternoon.  When putting the bed down, spread all the piled up bedding level across the floor.  Add fresh straw along with any straw left in the manger that was not eaten the previous day.  When opening a fresh bale of straw take care to remove the baler twine as this could lead to injury.

Once some banks of straw are built around the walls of the stable to the height of about 40cm (16 inches)  a level bed of about 20cm (8 inches) can be laid, banks will provide a cushion to prevent the donkeys lying too close to the wall and becoming "cast" (stuck on their backs) if they roll over.
Banks will also prevent draughts.

By routinely creating a tidy bed for your donkeys you will be able to tell if one of them has been rolling more than usual, as the bed will be disturbed, this could be an indication of a health problem. When you muck out make a mental note of the number of droppings and their consistency, as a change could also be an indication of a health problem.

If donkeys have to stay in the stable for a period of time it is a good idea, if space allows, to leave an area of floor space without bedding as this may help keep their feet healthy.

Muck heap
Management of your muckheap is an important issue for donkeys, owners, keepers and neighbours!
• The donkeys should not be able to get to the muck heap.
• It must be sited where it will not contaminate water courses, rivers, streams and ground water.
• It must also be sited where it will not cause a nuisance to houses and users of public rights of way.
• Your muckheap must have easy access from both your stables and the road if it is to be collected for disposal.
• It should not be too close to the stables as it may cause a nuisance to your donkeys from flies or a fire hazard as muckheaps can become very hot.
• Your muckheap should have solid base and sides to enclose it, so that any liquid can be contained. Any temporary muckheap (for example one which your local farmer or allotment owner takes away weekly) should be at least 10m from any water course and at least 50m from a well, borehole or spring that supplies water for human consumption or dairy use.

Disposal of your straw muckheap can be done by local agricultural contractors, farmers, used on your flowerbeds or given to gardening friends and family. But it must be left to compost for a year. If you’re not using straw bedding then a contractor or farmer would be a good option as other bedding takes a lot longer to rot down.

 

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Ass/Donkey/Burro - interchangeable terms that mean the same thing.
Colt - stallion under three years old.
Gelding - castrated male donkey .
Grooming - is the cleaning and brushing of the animal's coat which helps to keep the animal healthy and prevent skin problems.
Hand - a measuring unit equal to 4 inches.
Hinny - product of a female donkey and a male horse/pony.
Jack - male donkey.
Jack - foal male foal.
Jennet - foal female foal.
Jennet/Jenny - female donkey.
John - male mule.
Molly - female mule.
Mule - product of a male donkey and a female horse/pony.
Near side - the left side of the donkey.
Off side - the right side of the donkey.
Stallion - entire male donkey – not castrated.
Tack - is the equipment used on the animal so that it can be ridden(saddlery is used) or driven (harness is used).

Source: http://www.thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk